What it is

• Ajrakh is a traditional, natural-dye, resist block-printing process—typically 14–16 sequential stages of scouring, mordanting, printing resists, dyeing, oxidation, washing, and sun-drying. Core hues are indigo (blue) and madder/alizarin (red), with whites reserved by lime-gum resists and blacks made from iron–jaggery (“kat”) mixtures.
  
• A hallmark is double-sided printing (“bipuri / do-rukha”) where motifs align on both faces—a technically demanding registration achieved with precisely carved blocks and mirrored resist prints.
  

Why it’s specific to India (regional provenance)

• Kutch, Gujarat (Ajrakhpur & Dhamadka) is the strongest Indian provenance. After the 2001 Bhuj earthquake, many printers relocated from Dhamadka to Ajrakhpur, citing water quality as critical for natural dyeing outcomes.
  
• GI protection: “Kutch Ajrakh” received a Geographical Indication (GI) in 2024 (GI Registry certificate dated 30-03-2024; journal entry 29-11-2023)
  
• Barmer, Rajasthan is India’s other long-standing Ajrakh cluster—historically supplying bed linen/furnishings and known for bold palettes alongside the classic blue-red.
  

Technique & materials

• Resists & mordants: lime + gum arabic (khariyanu) to keep whites; iron–jaggery paste (“kat”) for blacks; alum for reds; all applied by block on one/both sides.
  
• Indigo & madder are the principal dyes; pieces typically take ~14–21 days end-to-end depending on weather and the number of dips/prints.
  
• Double-sided Ajrakh: registration marks are carved symmetrically into blocks to align prints on both faces.
  
• Local fibre link (Kutch): Many contemporary Kutch lines print on indigenous “Kala Cotton” (rain-fed, desi cotton; local initiative led by Khamir). It strengthens the India-specific provenance/sustainability story.
  

Export picture & HS mapping

There is no HS code dedicated to “Ajrakh”; exports are captured under broader textile lines. Use the end use/article to map HS.

• Yardage/fabric (most common buy for brands):
  
  • HS 5208 / 5209 = woven cotton fabrics (≤200 g/m² / >200 g/m²), incl. printed sub-headings. (Ajrakh cotton yardage typically falls here.)
    
  • India’s exports under HS 5208 were ≈ US$ 1.216 billion in FY 2023–24, per DGCI&S commodity profile. (Ajrakh is a subset of this.)
    
• Made-ups & apparel (Ajrakh scarves/dupattas, garments, home):
  
  • HS 6214 (shawls/scarves), HS 61/62 (knit/woven apparel), HS 6302/6303/6304 (bed/table/curtains/other furnishings). (Classify by the final article.)
    

Quality profile & buyer-side strengths

• Provenance & protection: GI-tagged Kutch Ajrakh (2024) allows origin branding and helps deter mislabelling—useful for storytelling and compliance.
  
• Craft complexity: multi-stage natural-dye process with double-sided registration capability; fine control of resists/mordants produces crisp whites, saturated indigo/red fields, and characteristic “star” geometry.
  
• Materials narrative (Kutch): pairing Ajrakh with Kala Cotton (rain-fed, indigenous) adds a credible sustainability claim specific to the region.
  
• Cluster resilience & water discipline: post-quake relocation to Ajrakhpur centred on water suitability, an often-overlooked driver of consistent natural-dye shade and crocking performance.
  

Performance & compliance

• Colorfastness
  
  • Wash: ISO 105-C06 (domestic/commercial laundering)
    
  • Crocking (rubbing): AATCC 8 / ISO 105-X12—especially important for indigo.
    
• Chemicals (EU/UK/EFTA): REACH Annex XVII Entry 43—22 aromatic amines from azo dyes ≤ 30 mg/kg; natural-dye Ajrakh generally complies, but test finished lots (including any non-natural prints/overdyes).
  
• If you pursue organic claims: align processes/inputs with GOTS v7.0 chemical restrictions (e.g., no aromatic-solvent print systems, AOX limits).
  

Common risks & how to mitigate

• Crocking (indigo) → specify minimum crock ratings (e.g., Dry ≥ 4 / Wet ≥ 3 on AATCC 8) and require adequate vat dips + oxidation time + final soap wash; verify on lab dips and gold sample.
  
• Shade/lot variation (natural dyes, seasonal water) → lock approved lab dips per base fabric & season; insist on water profile stability declaration from printers (Ajrakhpur strength).
  
• Fake “Ajrakh-look” prints (screen/ROT) → for Kutch-made, ask supplier to reference the GI on invoice/COO where permitted; require process route (natural dyes / resist print) in tech packs.
  

Buyer RFQ/PO checklist

1. Origin & cluster: “Ajrakh block print — Kutch (GI) / Barmer [choose].”
   
2. Construction: single-sided (ekpuri) or double-sided (bipuri); state registration tolerance (e.g., mis-register ≤ 0.75 mm).
   
3. Base fabric: weave, GSM; if Kutch story matters, allow Kala Cotton option.
   
4. Dyes & prints: natural-dye route (indigo/madder), resists/mordants (khariyanu/kat/alum) disclosed in the spec; no azo dyes
   
5. Testing minima: ISO 105-C06 wash ≥ Grade 3–4; AATCC 8 crock Dry ≥ 4 / Wet ≥ 3; REACH Annex XVII Entry 43 pass.
   
6. Finishing: final soap, neutralization, thorough rinse; dimensional stability target as per brand norm.
   
7. Labelling & COO: fibre content, care, India origin; for Kutch pieces, note GI where brand/legal permits.
   
8. HS mapping (for customs estimation): 5208/5209 for printed cotton fabrics; 6214 scarves/dupattas; 61/62 apparel; 6302/6303/6304 home. (Final classification = finished article.)
   

Quick export context

• Printed cotton fabrics proxy: India’s HS 5208 exports ≈ US$ 1.216 bn (FY 2023–24)—Ajrakh yardage sits within this line.
  
• Sector backdrop: India remains a top global T&A exporter with FY24 textiles & apparel exports ≈ US$ 35–36 bn (incl. handicrafts) per recent official/IBEF updates—Ajrakh rides this supply base and logistics.
  

At-a-glance: Kutch vs Barmer (buyer cues)

• Kutch (Ajrakhpur/Dhamadka): GI-tagged; strong double-sided capability; deeper natural-dye tradition with tight water control; common pairing with Kala Cotton.
  
• Barmer (Rajasthan): historic Ajrakh center for furnishing goods (bed sheets/spreads); bold palettes; useful for home-textile assortments and single-sided yardage.