• GI status & proprietor: Phulkari is a Registered Geographical Indication (GI Application No. 27) for embroidery (Class 26). The GI Journal records “Phulkari” under App. No. 27 and lists authorized-user matters under that record; public reporting names Punjab Small Industries & Export Corporation (PSIEC) as the registered proprietor.
  
• ODOP & state positioning: Phulkari is Punjab’s flagship craft under India’s One District One Product (ODOP) initiative (e.g., Patiala), giving the cluster visibility in government promotion and buyer outreach.
  

What makes Phulkari “Phulkari” (technique & design language)

• Technique: counted-thread darning stitch worked from the reverse on a coarse cotton ground (khaddar/khaddar), traditionally using untwisted silk floss (pat). Coverage ranges from sparse florals to Bagh (heavy, all-over).
  
• Motifs & variants (use in catalog copy): classic florals and geometrics; ceremonial types include Chope, Thirma, Sainchi, and Darshan Dwar—useful names for story-led collections.
  

best HS proxies

There isn’t a tariff line dedicated to “Phulkari”; use the embroidery and/or garment headings that your product falls into:

• Embroidery in the piece/strips/motifs — HS 5810 (India, 2023): US$173 million, with Italy ≈ US$47m (27%) as the largest market; other key destinations include fashion hubs in the EU and US.
  
• Finished garments with Phulkari ship under Ch. 61/62 (apparel) rather than 5810; the embroidery heading covers piece goods and motifs. (See HTS/UK guidance on chapters 61/62 and the embroidery note to 5810.)
  

HS mapping (for customs & paperwork)

• Piece goods / panels / motifs: HS 5810 (sub-heading by ground: 5810.91 cotton; 5810.92 MMF; 5810.99 other).
  
• Garments (kurtas, dupatta-attached suits, jackets, sarees, kidswear): Ch. 61 (knit) / Ch. 62 (woven) based on fabric and style; apparel chapters take precedence over 5810 for made-up clothing.
  
• Home textiles (cushions, runners, curtains): Ch. 63 (made-ups) or 5810 if sold as embroidered motifs/panels prior to make-up—check construction to finalize.
  

Sub-categories

1. Dupattas/Shawls/Stoles (heritage line): sheer georgette/organza or cotton-voile bases; emphasize stitch density and symmetry; retain heritage names (Bagh, Chope).
   
2. Apparel (kurtas, jackets, sarees): specify fabric (knit/woven + gsm), embroidery location/density, and back-neatening quality (no loose ends). Classification under 61/62.
   
3. Home & décor panels: yardage, cushions, runners, framed textiles; if selling as panels/motifs → 5810; if sewn into made-ups → Ch. 63.
   

Quality & workmanship

• Workmanship markers: even counted stitches, clean jaali (where used), tight knots on the reverse, and consistent shadow effect on sheer bases—derived from the traditional reverse-worked darning method.
  
• Colour-fastness tests (common buyer asks):
  
  • ISO 105-C06 (domestic/commercial laundering) and ISO 105-X12 (rubbing/crocking). Quote target ratings (e.g., wash 4/5; dry rub 4; wet rub 3–4) in your PO.
    
• Care symbols: use ISO 3758:2023 for harmonized care-symbol labelling across markets.
  

Compliance & labelling (EU / US quick guide)

• EU fibre labels: Reg. (EU) 1007/2011 governs fibre-composition labelling for textile products sold in the EU.
  
• EU chemical safety: ensure dyestuffs comply with REACH Annex XVII, Entry 43 (azo colorants → 22 amines, 30 mg/kg); keep lab reports per harmonised test methods. Metal trims (if any) must meet nickel-release limits (Entry 27).
  
• US labels: FTC Textile Fiber Rule (16 CFR 303) for fibre, RN/company and country of origin; Care Label Rule (16 CFR 423) for care instructions on apparel.
  

India/region strengths (what sets Punjabi Phulkari apart)

• Heritage technique + recognizable aesthetics: reverse-worked darning on khaddar with floss silk produces a distinctive surface and sheen; these specifics tie Phulkari tightly to Punjab/Haryana textile culture and wedding trousseau traditions.
  
• Policy visibility & market access: ODOP recognition (e.g., Patiala) and dedicated Phulkari web portal initiatives increase discoverability and institutional support for artisan SHGs—useful in buyer storytelling and CSR.
  
• Trade pathway clarity: substantial global demand for HS 5810 products (+US$173m India exports, 2023) provides a ready proxy basket for piece-goods; finished Phulkari apparel rides on mainstream Ch. 61/62 flows.
  

Buyer/RFQ checklist

• Product & HS: confirm 5810 vs 61/62/63 based on whether you’re shipping panels/motifs or made-ups/apparel; align invoice/packing list accordingly.
  
• Base fabric: cotton voile/khaddar, organza, georgette, silk or MMF; state gsm, weave, and colour.
  
• Embroidery spec: stitch names (bakhiya/bagh/jaali/…), coverage %, motif map, thread type (pat silk / rayon / polyester), and back-finish. (Technique basis per Indian Culture/IGNCA.)
  
• Testing: ISO 105-C06 (wash), 105-X12 (rub); add light-fastness if bright shades are critical.
  
• Labels & docs: EU 1007/2011 fibre disclosure (ISO 3758:2023 symbols); US 16 CFR 303/423 where applicable; azo-free declaration/REACH test reports.
  

Provenance: where relevant to your brand story, reference GI “Phulkari” (App. 27) and ODOP Punjab in product pages or swing tags.