Baluchari Sarees

Why they’re India/region-specific

• Origin: Bengal; today woven mainly in Bishnupur (Bankura, West Bengal). The hallmark is rich brocaded pallu/border panels with narrative (often mythological) motifs created by supplementary (extra) weft; historically jala patterning, now primarily jacquard on mulberry silk.
  
• Protected status: “Baluchari Saree” is a registered GI (Application No. 173); West Bengal’s GI registry lists validity to 31-May-2029.
  

Quality & compliance cues buyers look for

• Handloom authenticity: the Government of India’s Handloom Mark (Textiles Committee/DC Handlooms).
  
• Silk purity: Silk Mark certification (Central Silk Board/SMOI).
  
• India Handloom Brand (IHB) product specs exist for Baluchari and set construction/finishing expectations (ends/picks, size), with testing and labeling protocols.
  

Export classification & data (useful for paperwork & market sizing)

• HSN/HS: Silk Baluchari sarees usually ship under 5007.2010 (silk sarees); (cotton/cotton-blend variants use 52-series saree lines such as 5208/5211—examples include 52081120, 52082220).
  
• Sarees aren’t broken out by weave/design in public trade series; use silk saree HS 50072010 or cotton-saree 52-series as proxies plus your own shipment history. (Illustrative classification sources above.)
  
• Handloom export context: India’s handloom exports topped US$300 m/yr pre-COVID, dipped in 2020-21 and recovered partially by 2021-22; the US buys ~40% of India’s handloom exports (by value).
  

Product strengths to position

• Distinct narrative art (Ramayana/Mahabharata, temple/terracotta inspirations) on pallu and borders—instantly identifiable Bengal provenance.
  
• GI protection + Handloom/Silk Mark → credibility on origin and material purity in export markets.

Jamdani Sarees

Why they’re India/region-specific

• Technique: Jamdani = discontinuous extra-weft figuring (each motif woven separately). India has multiple lineages: Uppada Jamdani (A.P., silk-forward, very light) and Bengal Jamdani/Tangail-Fulia (W.B., cotton/mixed)—all built on the same supplementary-weft grammar.
  
• GI & official recognition: Uppada Jamdani Sarees are GI-registered (Regn No. 122) with Government of India; Government/committee pages document history and weaving practice. West Bengal “Jamdani Sarees” GI has been applied for (Application 1181, 2024; under examination).
  

Quality & compliance cues buyers look for

• Handloom Mark (authentic hand-woven) and IHB specifications: e.g., for cotton Jamdani saree IHB lists typical yarn counts ~80s–100s and minimum ends/picks per inch along with standard size—useful for tender/spec sheets.
  
• Uppada (silk Jamdani): documented as very lightweight with motifs executed by extra-weft without dobby/jacquard; two weavers often collaborate; time can range from ~1 week to months depending on complexity.
  
• Silk Mark for silk Jamdani pieces.
  

Export classification & data

• Silk Jamdani sarees: typically under HS 5007.2010 (silk sarees); cotton Jamdani sarees fall under 52-series woven-cotton saree lines (e.g., 5208/5211 8-digit “saree” sub-lines).
  
• Category demand: Within Indian handloom exports, the US is the single largest buyer (~40%); top markets also include UK/EU and the Middle East—these are the same channels that absorb Jamdani lines.
  

Product strengths to position

• Technique story (motif-by-motif extra-weft) supports premium pricing; extreme lightness/“diaphanous” hand for Uppada is a clear differentiator in silk eveningwear markets.
  
• GI + IHB + Handloom Mark provide verifiable provenance and quality baselines (counts/EPI-PPI), easing QA approvals with retailers/importers.
  

Quick exporter’s checklist

• Provenance/marks to show on pack or in catalog:
  GI (Baluchari; Uppada Jamdani), Handloom Mark, Silk Mark (for silk pieces), and—if used—the India Handloom Brand (IHB) product label with counts/EPI-PPI/size.
  
• HS codes on docs: Examples—50072010 (silk sarees), 52081120 / 52082220 / 52112140 (cotton/cotton-blend sarees, depending on fabric construction). Confirm at item creation.
  
• Market context: Handloom exports are hundreds of millions of USD annually; post-COVID recovery underway; US ~40% share in 2021-22. Use your SKU-level LCs/invoices to size Baluchari/Jamdani specifically (public stats are not disaggregated by weave/design).