What they are & why they’re “of the place”

• Baluchari (Bishnupur, Bankura district) – narrative brocaded silks whose borders & pallus depict mythological and courtly scenes; originally woven in Baluchar (Murshidabad), revived in Bishnupur; now produced on drawloom/jacquard with supplementary-weft brocade (single-color resham, multicolor meenakari, or zari-rich Swarnachari). Typical weave time ≈ one week per saree. GI-registered as “Baluchari Saree” (App. 173).
  
• Tant (Bengal cotton handloom) – airy, crisp cotton sarees for the hot, humid Bengal climate; classic clusters are Santipur & Phulia (Nadia), Dhaniakhali & Begumpur (Hooghly). “Tant” literally means handloom in Bangla. Santipur has a registered GI (“Santipore/Santipur Saree”, App. 138); Dhaniakhali Saree is also GI; Tangail (West Bengal) received GI in 2024 (distinct from Bangladesh’s Tangail).
  

Materials & construction

• Baluchari – fine mulberry silk (often with untwisted supplementary weft); figurative brocades on pallu/borders; modern production on jacquard; variants include Meenakari (multicolour) and Swarnachari (zari highlights).
  
• Tant – cotton, plain weave on pit looms; signature starched “crisp” hand; borders (paar) and pallus with extra-warp/extra-weft patterning; common yarn systems: Santipur often 100×100 threads; Dhaniakhali specifies denser border sett.

What makes them region-specific

• Baluchari strengths – unique narrative iconography (Ramayana/Mahabharata, courtly/everyday scenes) uncommon in other Indian silks; Bishnupur revival heritage and craft identity protected by GI.
  
• Tant strengths – lightweight breathability for tropical wear; distinct cluster signatures (e.g., Santipur reed marks, Dhaniakhali firm borders; Begumpur serrated motifs); multiple GIs (Santipur, Dhaniakhali; Tangail-WB) reinforce provenance.
  

HS classifications you’ll actually use

• Baluchari silk sarees: India’s tariff lines classify silk sarees under HS 5007.20.10 (6-digit umbrella 5007.20—woven silk fabrics ≥85% silk). Useful for export paperwork and market stats
  
• Tant (cotton) sarees: India maintains dedicated saree sublines in cotton fabrics, e.g., HS 5208.21.20 / 5208.21.30 / 5208.51.30 / 5208.21.20 (category 5208 – light plain-woven cotton ≥85% cotton, ≤200 g/m²). Check the exact construction to select the right 8-digit line.
  

Export snapshot

• Silk woven fabrics (HS 5007.20, includes silk saree lines like Baluchari) – India exported ~US$63.6 m in 2023; top buyers included Italy, UAE, France (indicative of premium occasionwear demand).
  
• Light pure woven cotton (HS 5208; the umbrella for many Tant saree tariff lines) – India exported ~US$997 m in 2023; top destinations Bangladesh (~US$145 m), Nigeria (~US$95 m), UAE, mirroring both apparel hub demand and diaspora retail.
  

Note: National customs often code sarees at fabric headings with specific “saree” tariff lines; importers in some markets may reclassify as apparel. Confirm with your broker per destination.

Buying specs & quality controls

Construction & aesthetics

• Baluchari (silk): 5.5–6.2 m length; jacquard supplementary-weft figuratives on pallu & borders; colourway in single-tone resham, multicolour meenakari, or zari (Swarnachari). Require Silk Mark label on 100% silk products; prefer Handloom Mark.
  
• Tant (cotton): lightweight plain weave; border design integrity; starch finish (rice-water) acceptable; Santipur 100×100 thread reference; Dhaniakhali firm border sett per GI spec. Require Handloom Mark.
  

Lab testing (common global asks)

• Colour fastness: laundering (ISO 105-C06), rubbing (ISO 105-X12), perspiration (ISO 105-E04/AATCC 15).
  
• Chemical compliance (EU/UK): REACH Annex XVII restrictions incl. azo amines/CMRs; align RSLs with buyer policy.
  

Authenticity & labeling

• Silk Mark (SMOI/Central Silk Board) – hologram & unique ID authenticate pure silk Baluchari.
  
• Handloom Mark (Govt. of India/Textiles Committee) – assures genuine hand-woven origin for both Baluchari and Tant.
  

Cluster & channel pointers

• Bishnupur (Baluchari) cluster – revival credited to early-20th-century efforts (e.g., Subho Tagore/Akshay Kumar Das) and currently serviced by cooperatives and state retail like Biswa Bangla/Tantuja
  
• Tant clusters – Santipur/Phulia, Dhaniakhali, Begumpur; state cluster listings are published by West Bengal’s Directorate of Textiles. GI applications exist for Begampur Cotton Handloom Saree as well.
  

Indicative domestic price bands

Baluchari/Swarnachari in state-run retail: ~₹10,800 to ₹60,000+ depending on zari & meenakari density. (Export FOB will be lower; use only to gauge craftsmanship tiers.)