Identity & legal protection

• GI status: Banaras Brocades & Sarees is a registered Geographical Indication covering sarees, brocades and allied silk goods produced in and around Varanasi (with listed nearby districts). The registration specifies product classes (23/24/25/26) and hallmark features (compact weaving, metallic/zari effects, meena work, jali, etc.).
  
• Local designation: Varanasi district officially lists “Banaras Brocades & Sarees” as a GI product; it’s also the ODOP (One District One Product) item for Varanasi.
  

Product taxonomy (typical sub-categories)

Recognized GI sub-types include Silk Jamdani, Jangla, Jamawar, Tanchoi, Tissue, Cutwork, Butidar, plus classic Katan, Kora/Organza, Georgette bases and brocade yardage. These map to handloom techniques like extra-weft brocade (kadhua/fekwa) and jacquard patterning described in the GI dossier.

What makes Banarasi “Banarasi” (quality markers)

• Dense, compact weaving; rich zari figuring with Mughal-inspired florals/foliates (kalga, bel), jali nets and meena (colored enamel-like) infill; pronounced pallus.
  
• Authenticity labels:
  
  • Silk Mark (Central Silk Board) certifies pure silk content; labels are hologrammed/serialised and verifiable.
  • Handloom Mark identifies genuine hand-woven goods; implemented by the Textiles Committee (Govt. of India).
    

Inputs & cluster footprint

• The GI file notes traditional inputs (mulberry silk; zari) and records sourcing of silk/yarn historically from Karnataka/Maharashtra and imported supplies (China/Japan) for certain counts—useful context for yarn planning.
  
• Scale: ODOP/Invest India cites ~18,000 handlooms and 7,500 powerlooms in the district, with ~80% of silk products still made on handlooms.
  

Exports snapshot (macro → HS-level)

• Silk & silk goods (all HS 50 & silk made-ups, India): ₹2,027.56 crore in FY 2023–24, per CSB/DGCIS (Press Information Bureau). Banarasi is a subset of this.
  
• Silk woven fabrics HS 5007 (India, 2023):
  
  • 5007 (≥85% silk) exports ≈ US$63.6m (289,935 kg).
    
  • 5007 “other” exports ≈ US$12.1m (52,030 kg).
    These headings cover brocade yardage and sari lengths classified as fabric.
    
• Handloom products overall: DGCIS-quoted update shows handloom exports ~US$115.28m (Apr–Jan 2025). Again, Banarasi is a slice within this basket.
  
• Branding push: UP’s sericulture federation registered “Silk Banarasi” as a trademark to signal authenticity (QR-coded traceability, CSB certification), with new showrooms/portal planned.
  

HS classification (for commercial paperwork)

• Silk sarees (as fabric lengths) are classified under HS 5007 (woven fabrics of silk) per CBIC GST FAQ; cotton/man-made variants fall under 52/54/55 as applicable.
  

Compliance & labelling (EU / US quick guide)

• EU: Fibre composition labelling rules under Reg. (EU) 1007/2011 (names, descending percentages; tolerances, etc.). Care symbols commonly per ISO 3758. Also observe REACH Annex XVII restrictions (e.g., banned azo dyes releasing 22 listed aromatic amines).
  
• US: Textile Fiber Rule (16 CFR 303) requires generic fibre names & % by weight, country of origin, and responsible company (name/RN). Care Label Rule (16 CFR 423) requires clear care instructions (text or accepted symbols).
  

Testing & QA

• Colour fastness (wash, rub/crock, perspiration, light) via AATCC/ISO 105 methods; daylight fastness also covered in Indian standards.
  
• Silk quality: Indian BIS series for raw silk grading/methods of test (IS 15090 parts) is the national reference.
  
• Where to test: Government Textiles Committee labs (pan-India) support fibre ID, azo/heavy metals screening, and construction parameters; also the evaluation pipeline used for India Handloom Brand.
  

Strengths specific to Varanasi/region

• Design language (Mughal-influenced florals/foliates, jal, meena) + dense extra-weft brocade and fine zari set Banarasi apart from other Indian silks.
  
• Formalwear anchor: Centuries-old association with wedding/ceremonial markets gives resilient domestic demand and export storytelling leverage. (See official district/ODOP positioning.)
  
• Institutional trust marks: Combo of GI + Silk Mark + Handloom Mark provides a layered authenticity stack for buyers.
  

Buyer/RFQ checklist (actionable)

• Product type & base: Katan/Kora/Georgette/Tissue; sub-type (Jangla, Tanchoi, Jamdani, Cutwork, Butidar)
  
• Composition: % silk (pure or blended), zari type (pure/half-fine/tested) and target GSM/EPI/PPI; ask for Silk Mark (pure silk) and Handloom Mark (hand-woven) where applicable.
  
• Compliance pack: EU 1007/2011 fibre label; REACH Annex XVII azo compliance; US 16 CFR 303/423 where relevant; ISO 3758 care symbols.
  
• Tests: AATCC/ISO colour fastness (wash/rub/light/perspiration) + any buyer RSL screens; share Textiles Committee test reports.
  
• Trade codes: Default HS 5007 for silk saree/fabric shipments (confirm at 8-digit based on construction).

Origin & GI mention: Ensure supplier location within notified GI districts and use GI narrative/branding where helpful.