What it is

• The product is protected under India’s Geographical Indication as “Banaras/Banaras Brocades and Sarees” (GI registered on 4 Sept 2009), covering six districts around Varanasi (Varanasi, Chandauli, Mirzapur, Jaunpur, Bhadohi/Sant Ravidas Nagar, Azamgarh). GI status anchors origin, motifs, brocade/zari work, and handloom traditions.
  

Export picture

• Sarees are treated as woven fabrics of their constituent fibre for customs classification in India. For silk sarees that means HS 5007 (Woven fabrics of silk or silk waste). India’s GST/HSN FAQ explicitly lists “Silk – Woven fabrics of silk – sarees – HS 5007.”
  
• India’s silk & silk products exports (all categories) were US$244.27–265 million in FY24, with UAE and USA among the top destinations. In FY25 (Apr–Dec) exports were US$215 million; UAE led with ~36% share, USA ~17%. (Category splits include yarn/fabrics/made-ups and RMG; Banarasi sarees fall under fabrics/made-ups.)
  
• For a silk-fabric proxy closest to pure Banarasi (≥85% silk), India exported HS 500720 worth ~US$63.6 million in 2023. Top buyers were UAE, USA, UK, Singapore, Italy, aligning with premium retail markets.
  

Practical note for contracts: quote HS 5007 (narrow to 500720 when ≥85% silk) plus GI mention “Banaras Brocades and Sarees” to dovetail customs, GST and origin.

Quality—what buyers can specify

Authoritative technical parameters (India Handloom Brand – Govt. of India):

• Banaras Brocade (pure silk): typical warp 14/16–20/22 denier (2-ply), EPI ≈ 260; weft 18/20–20/22 denier (4-ply), PPI ≈ 75.
  
• Tanchoi, Butidar/Jangla, Banarasi Silk Satin are listed as recognized Banaras constructions in the same schedule.
  
• IHB also requires products be free from banned amines (azo dyes), have defined color fastness, and conform to testable parameters—useful as annexes to an RFQ/PO.
  

Authenticity & labels you can demand:

• Silk Mark (Central Silk Board / SMOI): certifies pure natural silk; each label carries a hologram + unique serial number (verifiable). Ask sellers to share label numbers in pre-shipment docs.
  
• Handloom Mark (Textiles Committee): proves the saree is hand-woven (not power-loom). Include this where you specifically want handloom Banarasi.
  
• India Handloom Brand (IHB): optional but premium—attests to quality benchmarks (like the EPI/PPI/denier above). Specify IHB-compliant Banaras categories for high-end orders.
  

What’s uniquely India & Varanasi

• Protected origin & repertoire: The GI locks in the Banarasi vocabulary—kadhua/kadwa (extra-weft), jangla, tanchoi, butidar, meenakari, heavy zari brocades—techniques guarded by local weaver communities.
  
• Scale & clusters: Varanasi is a dense handloom cluster with extensive weaving skills and supply chains built around sarees and brocades—recognized as ODOP (One District One Product) by Uttar Pradesh, aligning state support, marketing and infrastructure.
  
• Upstream strength in silk: India is #2 globally in silk; raw silk output rose to ~38,913 MT in 2023-24, with Karnataka alone contributing ~32%—a strong domestic yarn base that supports premium handloom segments like Banarasi.
  
• New branding/trust signals: Uttar Pradesh has launched ‘Silk Banarasi’ branding (with QR-coded traceability clips on handloom products and Central Silk Board certification), helping overseas buyers distinguish genuine handloom Banarasi from power-loom lookalikes.
  

Compliance & labeling

• EU: Textile fibre labelling—Reg. (EU) 1007/2011 (list “silk” fibre %, care instructions as per buyer norms).
  
• US: Textile Fiber Rule (16 CFR 303)—generic fibre names & % by weight, manufacturer/RN, country of origin; Care Labeling Rule (16 CFR 423)—washing/dry-cleaning care. (There are limited exemptions where labels mar the product.)
  
• Chemicals: Ban azo dyes that release carcinogenic amines (mirror REACH Annex XVII expectations); the IHB schedule already calls for “free from banned amines.”
  

Sample RFQ specs

• Product: GI-origin Banarasi silk saree/brocade fabric, handloom woven, origin: Varanasi GI – “Banaras Brocades and Sarees.”
  
• Construction (IHB-conformant): Banaras Brocade—warp 14/16–20/22 D, 2-ply; EPI ~260; weft 18/20–20/22 D, 4-ply; PPI ~75; motif style: kadhua/jangla/tanchoi (specify).
  
• Authenticity: Silk Mark label (state serial numbers in packing list) + Handloom Mark; where available, India Handloom Brand.
  
• Fibre declaration: ≥85% silk (target HS 500720); exact fibre % to appear on labels and invoices.
• Dyes & chemicals: Azo-free (no banned amines); colour fastness as per IHB.
  
• Labelling: EU or US labelling per destination (EU 1007/2011 / 16 CFR 303 & 423).
  
• Traceability: Where applicable, ‘Silk Banarasi’ QR-code trace video.