What it is (quick ID)

• Bandhani/Bandhej is a hand tie-resist dyeing process: the design is marked (stencil/fugitive print), thousands of tiny “bindis/bheendi” knots are tied, then fabric is successively dyed/retied to build multi-colour motifs; knots are removed to reveal crisp dots/rings. Tying is traditionally home-based women’s work in artisan families.
  
• Used across cotton and silk bases (plain-weave cotton, muslin, georgette/crepe/chiffon/voile etc.), with regional variations in motif density and layout.
  

Why it’s specific to India

• Gujarat:
  
  • Jamnagar—historic dyeing centre; classic alizarin/madder maroons historically; today silk uses acid dyes while cotton uses vat/naphthol (so specify chemistry in POs)
    
  • Kutch (Bhuj, Mandvi, Dhaneti, Ajrakhpur area)—Bandhani practiced largely by Khatri dyer/printer families; craft is central to Kutch’s living textile ecosystem (LLDC/Shrujan).
    
• Rajasthan: Jaipur, Jodhpur, Udaipur, Sikar—Bandhej and the striped/wave variant Leheriya are widely used in odhnis, sarees and turbans. (A GI application exists for Rajasthan Lehariya Textiles, but its status is separate from Bandhani GIs.)
  
• GI protection (Bandhani)
  
  • Jamnagari Bandhani (Gujarat)—GI Application No. 221 (Classes 24 & 25).
    
  • Kutch Bandhani of Gujarat—Registered GI (application filed 26-04-2021, available 29-11-2023).
    

Technique & materials

• Process: mark design → micro-tying (continuous thread, cotton/nylon) → light ground dye (often yellow) → re-tying (“repairing”) → further dye(s) → wash/dry → de-knot. Multiple tie-dye cycles yield multi-colour layouts.
  
• Chemistry (Jamnagar evidence): silk = acid dyes; cotton = vat/naphthol; traditional madder/alizarin reds documented. (If you want “natural dyes only”, state that explicitly.)
  
• Cultural products: Gharchola (silk checks with Bandhani in the squares) and Panetar (white body/red borders) for Gujarati bridal wear—useful styles to line-list.
  

how Bandhani actually ships

There is no HS code called “Bandhani.” Classify by fiber + construction + finished article.

• Woven cotton fabrics (dyed/printed) yardage → HS 5208/5209 (≤/>200 g/m²). In 2023, India exported ~US$ 997 million of HS 5208 (“Light Pure Woven Cotton”)—a practical proxy for cotton Bandhani yardage.
  
• Silk yardage (georgette/crepe) → HS 5007; within this, 5007.20 (≥85% silk) India exported ~US$ 63.6 million in 2023.
  
• Scarves/dupattas/stoles (non-knit) → HS 6214.10 (silk)/other 6214 lines per fibre & size.
  
• Sarees: jurisdictional practice varies; India’s tariff includes saree-specific lines under fabric headings (e.g., 5208/5007 sub-lines); for exports, many customs brokers still classify by the finished article rules—confirm for your lanes.
  
• Sector backdrop: India’s Textiles & Apparel exports (incl. handicrafts) were US$ 36.61 bn in FY25 (provisional)—Bandhani rides this base (especially fashion accessories & sarees)
  

Quality profile & buyer-side strengths

• Depth & crispness of dots/rings from careful micro-tying tension and disciplined dye cycles; motifs are in-the-ground (not prints), giving a premium hand-crafted story.
  
• Authenticity & origin story backed by GI tags (Jamnagar, Kutch) for traceable provenance; helpful against screen-print “Bandhani lookalikes.”
  
• Regional style leverage:
  
  • Kutch—fine dot clusters, deep multi-tone layouts; strong artisan ecosystem (LLDC/Shrujan).
    
  • Jamnagar—historic mastery of reds/maroons (alizarin legacy); today highly capable with bright palettes on silk & cotton.
    
  • Rajasthan—Bandhej and Leheriya stripes/waves for festive lines.
    

Performance & compliance

• Colour fastness
  
  • Wash: ISO 105-C06 (set minima e.g., colour change ≥ 3–4; staining ≥ 3–4 depending on article).
    
  • Crocking/rubbing: AATCC TM8 / ISO 105-X12—indicate Dry ≥ 4 / Wet ≥ 3 for deep shades.
    
  • Perspiration (next-to-skin items): ISO 105-E04 (acid/alkali)
    
• Chemicals
  
  • EU REACH Annex XVII Entry 43—22 banned aromatic amines from azo dyes, limit 30 mg/kg; applicable to textile & leather articles in direct/prolonged contact.
    
  • If children’s sizes (US): CPSIA total lead in accessible components ≤ 100 ppm.
    

Common risks & how to mitigate

• Crocking on deep reds/blacks (especially vat/naphthol on cotton, acid on silk): require AATCC 8 minima and a final soap/neutralization step; verify on lab dips and a signed gold sample.
  
• Bleed/shade variation (multi-stage dyeing, seasonal water): lock approved shade standards per base; specify dye class (e.g., “no azo-split risk”); enforce E04 perspiration minima for next-to-skin.
  
• Counterfeits (screen prints): require process disclosure (hand tie-dye, number of dye cycles) and work-in-progress photos (tied cloth & de-knot stage); for Gujarat pieces, ask for GI mention on invoices/COO where allowed.
  

Buyer RFQ/PO checklist

• Origin/cluster: “Bandhani (Bandhej) — Jamnagar (GI) / Kutch (GI) / Rajasthan (Bandhej/Leheriya) [choose].”
  
• Article & HS planning: yardage (5208/5209 cotton; 5007 silk); 6214 scarves/dupattas; sarees per broker guidance (fabric sub-lines vs finished article).
  
• Base fabric: fibre, weave, GSM; width; for silk specify filament/crepe/georgette and denier.
  
• Dye route: natural-dye only or permitted synthetic classes (e.g., vat on cotton; acid on silk); explicitly ban REACH Annex XVII Entry 43 azo amines.
  
• Quality minima: ISO 105-C06 ≥ 3–4; AATCC 8 Dry ≥ 4 / Wet ≥ 3; ISO 105-E04 ≥ 3–4.
  
• Workmanship: dot uniformity (radius variance ≤ X mm), ring clarity (no wicking), maximum mis-placement (≤ 0.75 mm), clean de-knotting.
  
• Marks/labels (where applicable): Handloom Mark; Silk Mark for 100% silk.
  
• Finishing & packaging: final soap/neutralization, soft handle, controlled moisture; tissue interleave, avoid hard folds on dense dot fields.
  

At-a-glance: cluster cues for assortment planning

• Kutch (Gujarat): fine dots, complex multi-colour fields; strong artisan ecosystem; great for premium dupattas/yardage with dense layouts.
  
• Jamnagar (Gujarat): heritage maroon/red mastery (alizarin legacy), now bright festival palettes on silk & cotton; strong for bridal Gharchola/Panetar tie-dye components.
  
• Rajasthan: classic Bandhej and Leheriya waves/diagonals for festive and tourism-led demand.