The 4 styles at a glance (origin, technique, identity)

Ajrakh (Kutch, Gujarat — GI)

• Protected origin: Kutch Ajrakh is GI-registered (Application #1050, 2023/24). Intellectual Property IndiaThe Times of India
  
• Technique/identity: Elaborate multi-stage resist printing with natural dyes (notably indigo and madder), repeated printing–dyeing–sun-dry cycles; hallmark geometric/jali motifs with deep indigo–crimson contrasts. Dsourcehandmadeinrajasthan.rajasthan.gov.in
  

Bagru (Jaipur district, Rajasthan — GI)

• Protected origin: Bagru Hand Block Print is GI-registered. Intellectual Property India
  
• Technique/identity: Uses natural dyes and dabu (mud-resist) work; signature earthy palette including kashish (iron-based greys/browns), indigo blues, and madder reds. oriGInMAP Academy
  

Sanganeri (Jaipur, Rajasthan — GI)

• Protected origin: Sanganeri Hand Block Printing is GI-registered (valid to 2028). Intellectual Property India
  
• Technique/identity: Very fine floral layouts on pale/white grounds; classic design vocabulary buti, buta, jhar/jhalr, borders; prized for delicate outlines and clean registration. oriGInDsource
  

Kalamkari (Andhra Pradesh — GI)

• Two traditions under GI: Machilipatnam/Pedana Kalamkari (vegetable-dyed block-printed) and Srikalahasti (hand-painted). For block prints you want Machilipatnam/Pedana. oriGInIntellectual Property India
  
• Technique/identity: Vegetable mordant/dye palette; floral creepers, Persianate borders, mythic panels; printed with carved wood blocks. oriGIn
  

India’s ODOP (One District One Product) also spotlights Ajrakh/Kutch and the Jaipur printing clusters, which helps origin storytelling and vendor vetting. Press Information BureauIndia Government Portal

Export picture — how these actually ship

Typical HS “buckets” to use

• Printed cotton fabrics (when shipping fabric by the meter): HS 5208/5209 sub-lines for printed woven cotton (weight ≤/ >200 g/m²); a common catch-all is 520859 “other printed woven cotton fabrics (≥85% cotton, ≤200 g/m²).” blog.intoglo.com
  
• Scarves/stoles: HS 6214 (woven shawls/scarves/stoles).
  
• Bed/table/home linen (Jaipur “block-print” bedsheets, tablecloths, etc.): HS 6302. Trend Economy
  (Garments made from these fabrics fall under Chapters 61/62 by garment type.)
  

Scale signals (best proxies)

• India’s printed woven cotton fabric exports under 520859 were US$28.1m (2023)—a good proxy for meterage leaving as printed cotton. World Integrated Trade Solution
  
• India’s shawls/scarves/stoles (621490) exports were US$123.36m (2023)—relevant for Ajrakh/Bagru/Sanganeri/Kalamkari stoles. World Integrated Trade Solution
  
• India’s bed/table/kitchen linen (6302) exports were US$1.79 bn (2023)—this is where block-printed bed linen sits. Trend Economy
  

Why proxies? None of these crafts have their own HS lines; export value rides inside the printed-cotton, scarves, and home-linen headings.

Quality & strengths — what to specify and check

Common quality anchors (all four styles)

• Registration & alignment: neat repeat alignment across blocks; no double-impression “shadows.” (Process standards from NID D’source and Textiles Committee training.) Dsourcetxcindia.gov.in
  
• Fastness: build a lab plan around ISO 105: washing (C06), rubbing (X12), perspiration (E04), light (B02). (BIS/Textiles Committee/ISO references). ISOtextilescommittee.nic.in
  
• Chemicals: require compliance with EU REACH Annex XVII azo-amine restrictions (the 22 aromatic amines) for all export SKUs; hold supplier test reports. ECHAreachonline.eu
  

Style-specific strengths to leverage

• Ajrakh (Kutch)
  Strengths: deep natural-dye palette (indigo/madder), complex resist (premium story), high craft equity under new GI.
  QC focus: clarity of micro-motifs, even indigo depth, crisp white reserves after final wash. DsourceIntellectual Property India
  
• Bagru (Rajasthan)
  Strengths: dabu mud-resist and kashish dye chemistry yield earthy greys/browns plus indigo/madder—very “India-coded” aesthetics; protected GI.
  QC focus: resist edges should be clean (no excessive bleed), tonal consistency in kashish greys; check for proper scouring/harada (myrobalan) base prep. oriGInMAP Academy
  
• Sanganeri (Jaipur)
  Strengths: ultra-fine florals on white/pastels; classic buti/buta/jhar/border vocabulary; protected GI and dense cluster capacity in Jaipur.
  QC focus: fine outline “syahi” blocks must be sharp; look for even coverage and clean back of cloth (hallmark of good Sanganeri work). oriGInDsource
  
• Kalamkari (Machilipatnam/Pedana)
  Strengths: vegetable-dyed, GI-protected block-printed tradition; strong border/panel story for scarves, yardage and home.
  QC focus: colour evenness after madder/alum development; motif fill without speckling; confirm it’s Machilipatnam/Pedana (block-printed) if you are buying “block-print Kalamkari” (not Srikalahasti, which is hand-painted). oriGInIntellectual Property India
  

What to put in your PO/spec (practical)

1. Origin & GI where applicable
   
   • Cite the GI in contracts when sourcing from these clusters (Ajrakh–Kutch; Bagru; Sanganeri; Machilipatnam/Pedana Kalamkari). Keep authorized-user details where provided. Intellectual Property India+2Intellectual Property India+2oriGIn
     
2. HS & paperwork
   
   • Meterage: use 5208/5209 printed sub-lines appropriate to weight; stoles under 6214; bed/table linen under 6302. (Confirm final 8-digit with your broker per fibre/weight/weave.) blog.intoglo.comTrend Economy
     
3. Lab plan (set to your brand thresholds)
   
   • ISO 105 washing/rubbing/perspiration/light; keep reports from a recognized lab (or India Textiles Committee labs). ISOtextilescommittee.nic.in
     
   • REACH Annex XVII (Azo) pass for EU/UK (22 amines). ECHA
     
4. Workmanship checkpoints
   
   • Registration (no doubling), block strike clarity, no pinholes or smears, colour consistency lot-to-lot; for dabu pieces ensure resist paste has not cracked or washed out unevenly. (Technique docs). Dsource
     

Why these are specific to India & the region

• Legal protection + lineage: All four are formally recognized on India’s GI Registry, tying craft/process to place (Kutch, Jaipur cluster, Machilipatnam/Pedana; Srikalahasti for hand-painted). Intellectual Property India+3Intellectual Property India+3Intellectual Property India+3oriGIn
  
• State/Union promotion: The Govt.’s ODOP and state tourism/craft portals actively promote Ajrakh (Kutch) and Jaipur block-prints, aiding export readiness and cluster access. Press Information BureauIncredible IndiaIndia Government Portal
  
• Documented techniques: Government-linked design archives (NID D’source/IITB) and official training notes (Textiles Committee) document the exact, place-coded processes (syahi/begar in Jaipur; dabu/kashish in Bagru; resist sequences in Ajrakh; vegetable-dye block print in Machilipatnam). DsourceDsourcetxcindia.gov.in