You’re looking at Kashmir’s signature embroidered floor art—chain-stitch (Aari) rugs worked on cotton/hessian bases with wool or silk yarn. This page clarifies what’s authentic, how to spec and test it, which HS codes to ship under, and where demand sits today—citing official registries and standards.

What the GI covers

• GI status: Kashmir Chain Stitch is officially registered with India’s Geographical Indications Registry (Journal 199, availability date 29-Nov-2024). Use of the GI name implies origin and craft specifications tied to the Kashmir region.
  
• Related GIs you’ll see in the same ecosystem: Kashmir Crewel (embroidered furnishings) and Kashmir Namda/Gabba (felted/appliqué rugs) have also been granted GI tags—handy for adjacent collections and storytelling.
  

why India’s make is distinct

• Where/how it’s made: Chain-stitch rugs are embroidered with a hooked needle (Aari) on hessian or handmade cotton cloth, using wool or silk yarn; the embroidery typically covers the full surface. This is a Kashmir Valley specialty (Srinagar & surrounding clusters).
  
• Design language: Floral (chinar leaf, vines, paisleys), animal & medallion layouts common; pieces can be finished for floor use or as wall hangings.
  

Product sub-categories to merchandise

• Wool-on-Cotton Chain-stitch Rugs
  Base: dense cotton canvas (“dusooti”/duck); embroidery: wool yarn; backing: cotton canvas optional; sizes commonly 2×3 to 9×12 ft. Position for living/dining accents and wall decor.
  
• Silk-on-Cotton Chain-stitch
  Finer yarn for sheen and intricate motifs; use pad/underlay for floor friction; pitch as premium wall hanging/low-traffic area rug.
  
• Jute/Hessian-base Chain-stitch
  Rustic handle and texture; confirm weave weight and latex-free backings if selling to chemically sensitive markets.
  
• Rug/Runner Sets & Wall-Hanging Formats
  Some SKUs ship with sleeves for rods—useful for hospitality/art walls.
  

HS anchors & markets

• HS you’ll quote: Chain-stitch rugs are exported under HS 5705 – “Other carpets and other textile floor coverings, whether or not made up.” India’s tariff lines under 5705 cover durries, jute/cotton options, etc. (Namda—felted rugs—sit under HS 5704.)
  
• Scale: India exported ≈ US$253.1 million of HS 5705 in 2023 (about 34.55 million m²). Top buyer: USA ≈ US$120.9 m; other key markets include UK, Sweden, Germany, France. (HS scope covers “other textile floor coverings,” not just chain-stitch.)
  

Quality & testing checklist

• Base & embroidery: specify base (cotton duck/hessian), yarn (wool/silk), embroidery coverage (full-field vs panels), and backing (cotton canvas/anti-slip pad).
  
• Performance tests (typical buyer sets):
  
  • Colour fastness to rubbing/perspiration/water (ISO/AATCC as per retailer protocols).
    
  • Mass/Thickness/Appearance change—e.g., ISO 8543, ISO 1765, ISO 12951 (Lisson Tread) for textile floor coverings.
    
  • Reaction to fire where required: ISO/EN 9239-1 in EU building contexts; 16 CFR 1630/1631 small-flame flammability for carpets/rugs in the US.
    
• Chemical compliance: Screen dyestuffs against REACH requirements (e.g., azo dyes releasing certain amines prohibited in the EU; many buyers follow GUT/PRODIS limits for textile floor coverings).
  

EU/UK market notes

• CE/DoP (EU): EN 14041 is the harmonized standard for flooring products, but excludes loose-laid rugs/runners; most area rugs won’t carry CE under this hEN. For floor coverings marketed as construction products, follow EN 14041/AVCP; otherwise treat as consumer textiles under REACH/GPSD/Textile labelling.
  
• UK: Furniture & Furnishings (Fire) Regulations mainly target upholstered furniture; rugs per se are typically outside scope—but buyers may still request flammability evidence.
  
• US: Carpets and rugs sold domestically must pass 16 CFR 1630/1631 flammability. Keep lab reports with shipment files.
  

India’s sourcing strengths

• Technique density & coverage: Aari-worked chain-stitch covers the entire surface, enabling painterly florals and medallions distinct from tufted/knotted looks.
  
• Material flexibility: Kashmir makers work across cotton/hessian bases with wool or silk yarn, allowing different price/feel tiers for retail.
  
• Now GI-certified: The new Kashmir Chain Stitch GI strengthens origin claims and helps combat mislabelling—use this for premium positioning and authenticity assurances.
  

Practical buying guide

• Specs to fix early: Base fabric GSM & weave, yarn type (wool/silk) & ply, coverage (full-field), motif complexity, size & tolerance, backing (canvas/anti-slip), use (floor vs wall), and GI claim (“Kashmir Chain Stitch”).
  
• Docs to request: GI reference from supplier (authorized user details), full test set (colour fastness, rub, dimensional stability), chemical screen (azo/SVHC as relevant), and flammability reports where applicable.
  
• HS on paperwork: HS 5705 for chain-stitch rugs; keep 5704 in mind for Namda felt rugs if you mix categories.
  

Quick FAQs

• Are chain-stitch rugs durable for heavy traffic?
  They’re embroidered textiles (not knotted/tufted). Recommend pads/underlays, rotate use, and position in moderate-traffic areas or as wall hangings.
  
• What’s the difference vs. crewel?
  “Crewel” in Kashmir often refers to chain-stitch embroidery on furnishings; chain-stitch rugs are the floor/wall-hanging expression of the same Aari technique. GI now separately recognizes Kashmir Chain Stitch and Kashmir Crewel.
  
• Top markets today?
  The US is India’s largest buyer for HS 5705, followed by key EU markets (UK/DE/FR/SE).
  

Compliance snippets

• Azo dye clause (EU sales): “Supplier shall use dyestuffs compliant with EU restrictions on aromatic amines; products must meet REACH and any buyer-specified GUT/PRODIS limits.”
  
• US flammability (small carpets/rugs): “Finished rugs must comply with 16 CFR 1630/1631; provide accredited lab report per lot/size.”
  
• GI/authenticity: “Where marketed as ‘Kashmir Chain Stitch (GI)’, supplier will provide current GI registration/user details and maintain origin documentation.”