Scope & HS codes (how it ships)
- Chamba Rumal is a hand-embroidered textile from Chamba district, Himachal Pradesh, protected as a Geographical Indication (GI No. 79; 22-Jan-2007).
- Typical export classification is HS 5810 – “Embroidery in the piece, in strips or in motifs.” (Product-specific HS at 6-digit level includes 581010/581091/581092/581099; select according to ground fabric.)
Exports
Chamba Rumal is a micro-niche inside India’s “embroidery” basket; it isn’t reported as a separate line item.
- India’s HS 5810 exports (2023): US$ ~173 million. Top market Italy (~US$47m), followed by other EU destinations. Use this as the scale proxy for handmade embroidery; Chamba Rumal is a tiny fraction within it.
- Handicrafts overall (all categories) from India were ~US$ 3.8 bn in FY24 (context for buyer demand channels/EPCH ecosystem).
Quality & authenticity (what makes a Rumal “Chamba”)
- Double-sided “do-rukha / dohara tanka” technique: a double satin/double darning stitch worked so front and back are virtually identical, with no knots; outlines in bandi tanka/stem stitch.
- Materials: base khaddar/muslin/malmal (also silk in some heritage pieces); embroidery with untwisted silk floss (traditional), now often market silk
- Design language: drawings first laid on cloth (fine charcoal/brush), then filled—iconography draws from Pahari miniature painting (Krishna-lila, Ramayana, Gita Govinda, hunt/ceremonial scenes).
- Authenticity signal: insist on GI provenance (Chamba, HP) and documentation from GI stakeholders/State bodies; the craft is also showcased by Bhuri Singh Museum, Chamba, which houses canonical Rumals.
Buyer-side QC checklist (practical):
- Technique: verify true double-sidedness (mirror fidelity of outlines & fill); check tension uniformity and stitch coverage (no ground peeking in filled areas).
- Ground & thread: declare fabric type & count, silk floss type (twist/denier), and dye class (prefer AZO-free).
- Artwork controls: approve cartoon/layout (mythological scene, border geometry), size, and colourway before bulk.
Why India/Chamba is distinctive
- GI protection + heritage: registered GI (HP Patent Information Centre) anchors origin, reputation & method—useful for traceability and premium positioning
- Technique tied to region: the do-rukha method and Pahari-painting lineage are documented by Sahapedia; this craft/history cluster is specific to the Chamba-Kangra hill arts ecosystem.
- Policy & promotion: Chamba Rumal is spotlighted under ODOP/State export promotion; Himachal’s IPR Policy (2025) explicitly pushes GI-based crafts (Kullu/Kinnauri shawls, Chamba Rumal, etc.).
- Institutional channels: HP State Handicrafts & Handloom Corp. (Himcrafts) markets Rumals and supports training—useful for verified sourcing and government emporium routes.
Suggested RFQ/spec (export-ready)
- HS/Docs: propose HS 5810; add GI reference (Application 79) in product description; include maker’s name & district.
- Size & finish: square/rectangular; agree exact dimensions and border treatment (museum examples range widely—e.g., 89×82 cm historic Rumal).
- Materials: ground (muslin/khaddar/silk); embroidery thread (untwisted silk floss)—specify fibre composition for labelling.
- Workmanship tests: visual AQL, seam/edge security, colour-fastness (ISO 105 methods as per lab plan), and dimensional stability on the ground fabric (light wetting).
Market-entry compliance (EU example; adapt per destination)
- Textile labelling: Reg. (EU) 1007/2011—state fibre composition; add “contains non-textile parts of animal origin” if applicable (e.g., silk tassels with non-textile parts).
- Chemicals/RSL: ensure compliance with REACH Annex XVII (e.g., restrictions on azo dyes and other CMRs for textiles).
