What they are

• Chanderi Sarees (GI-tagged): Registered Geographical Indication for handloom sarees from Chanderi, Ashoknagar district, Madhya Pradesh. Applicant: Chanderi Development Foundation. Registration lives on India’s GI registry (App. No. 7; “Chanderi Sarees”).
  
• Maheshwar “Sarees & Fabrics” (GI-tagged): Registered GI for handloom sarees & fabrics from Maheshwar, Khargone district, Madhya Pradesh (App. No. 197)
  

Export snapshot

• India’s handloom exports are primarily home textiles (mats/mattings, rugs, bedsheets, etc.); home textiles account for >60% of handloom exports. In FY24, carpets/other textile floor coverings alone were US$1.87 bn; IBEF summarises India’s handloom export mix and markets (US, UK, EU, UAE among key destinations). GI-weaves like Chanderi/Maheshwari are exported within the broader “handloom fabrics/garments & made-ups” basket.
  
• Market access & promotion: HEPC (Handloom Export Promotion Council) actively targets MP clusters—including Chanderi & Maheshwar—for export facilitation and buyer–seller linkages.
  

Note: DGCIS/HEPC do not publish line-item export values by named weave (e.g., “Chanderi saree”); these sit inside aggregated HS lines for handloom fabrics/garments. Use the HS framework below when scoping.

Quality & technical specifics

Chanderi (Ashoknagar, MP)

• Look/handfeel & motifs: Famous for sheer, shimmering, gossamer fabric with extra-weft butis and Mughal-influenced motifs such as single buti, jaali, chatai, jangla, peacocks, swans and gold-coin (ashrafi) patterns.
• Typical construction (IHB quality norms): Silk-cotton dress/saree constructions commonly use 18/20–20/22 denier mulberry silk and 2/80s–2/120s cotton with about 90–104 ends per inch and 60–70 picks per inch (45″ yardage). These are benchmark parameters under the India Handloom Brand program.
• Cluster scale: ~3,500 weaver families and about the same number of looms in Chanderi.
  

Maheshwari (Maheshwar, MP)

• Look/handfeel & motifs: Noted for reversible (Ganga-Jamuna) borders and 5 classic design types—Chandrakala, Baingani Chandrakala (plain), Chandtara, Beli, Parbi (checks/stripes). Motifs often reference Maheshwar Fort architecture; common patterns include chatai, chameli, rui-phool, hans, heera, leheriya, “Narmada” wave—with zari borders traditionally sourced from Surat.
• Typical construction (IHB quality norms): Silk-cotton builds using 18/20–20/22D silk with 2/80s–2/120s cotton (or two-ply 80s–120s) around 80–90 EPI and 60–70 PPI (45″).
• Cluster scale: District (Khargone) cites ~3,120 handlooms and ~9,360 weavers engaged in Maheshwar.
  

Why they’re region-specific (India/Madhya Pradesh strengths)

• Deep heritage secured by GI: Both weaves are legally tied to their geographies—Chanderi town and Maheshwar on the Narmada—protecting name+reputation in export markets.
  
• Design vocabulary from place: Maheshwari borders/pallus directly draw from Maheshwar Fort architecture; Chanderi’s motif set includes ashrafi (coin) and nature-inspired butis—an identifiable, place-linked aesthetic.
  
• Climate-appropriate product: Naturally lightweight, breathable silk-cotton blends evolved for Central India’s summers; the handloom structure gives the characteristic drape and translucence buyers seek.
  
• Institutional ecosystem: National handloom programs, IHB quality regime, and HEPC export drives support capability and market access; Maheshwar’s revival institutions (e.g., REHWA Society) have professionalised production and training.
  

Compliance, authenticity & buyer QC

• Authenticity marks:
  
  • Handloom Mark (Development Commissioner for Handlooms) certifies genuine handloom.
    
  • India Handloom Brand (IHB) certifies products meeting defined yarn counts, EPI/PPI and fastness parameters (category-specific; includes Chanderi & Maheshwari). Keep specs aligned with the IHB tables referenced above.
  • Silk Mark (for pure-silk variants).
• Colorfastness & lab tests (export common): For EU/US retail, typical asks include ISO 105 series—e.g., C06 (domestic/commercial washing) and X12 (rubbing/crocking). Aim for at least Color change ≥4 after washing and dry/wet crocking ≥4/3–4 unless buyer specs differ.
  

HS code framework

• Pure silk sarees: HS 5007.20.10 (India tariff sub-heading “Sarees”).
  
• Other silk fabrics/sarees (silk blends): HS 5007.90 (“other fabrics of silk or silk waste”)—applies when not covered by 5007.20.10.
  
• Cotton-predominant woven saree fabrics: HS 5208/5209 (woven cotton fabrics; by weight per m²), depending on construction. Classification follows Section XI, Note 2(a)—chief weight fibre governs heading. (Check exact counts/weights per shipment.)
  

Sourcing tips & positioning

• Product positioning:
  
  • Chanderi: premium occasion-to-resort drape; highlight translucence, fine butis, tissue variants; low gram weight with rich visual impact.
  • Maheshwari: work-to-festive utility; signature reversible borders, stripes/checks (“Chandtara/Beli/Parbi”); excellent value in silk-cotton for international buyers.
• Specs to lock in POs: reference IHB yarn counts + EPI/PPI bands above; state allowable shade variation, zari composition (real/tested; typically sourced via Surat supply chain), and loom width.
  
• Cluster capacity: Chanderi and Maheshwar each have thousands of active looms/weavers, supporting small to mid-size batch runs with design development under NHDP/IHB regimes.
  

Handy fact sheet

Chanderi (GI; Ashoknagar)
• Fabric/feel: ultra-sheer, lustrous; extra-weft butis (incl. ashrafi).
• Typical build (IHB): 18/20–20/22D silk × 2/80s–2/120s cotton; ~90–104 EPI / 60–70 PPI (45″).
• Cluster size: ~3,500 weaver families; ~equal number of looms.
• HS guide: 5007.20.10 (pure silk saree); 5007.90 (silk fabric/other); 5208/5209 (cotton-predominant). Apply Section XI Note 2(a) (chief-weight fibre).

Maheshwari (GI; Maheshwar)
• Design identity: reversible (Ganga-Jamuna) borders, classic Chandrakala/Baingani Chandrakala (plains) & Chandtara, Beli, Parbi (checks/stripes); fort-inspired motifs; zari from Surat.
• Typical build (IHB): 18/20–20/22D silk × 2/80s–2/120s cotton (2-ply options); ~80–90 EPI / 60–70 PPI (45″).
• Cluster size: ~3,120 looms; ~9,360 weavers engaged.
• HS guide: same as above, per fibre predominance/structure.