• GI status: “Lucknow Chikan Craft” is a registered Indian Geographical Indication (GI Regn. No. 119).
  
• Scale & cluster: ~250,000+ artisans across Lucknow and adjoining districts produce apparel and home textiles using 30+ stitch types; the craft’s uniqueness lies in its stitch vocabulary, motifs, and shadow-work aesthetics.
  
• Technique (process): classic 3–5 stage flow — block/tracing (“chhapai”), hand-embroidery, washing/finishing — executed by specialized workers.
  

Product sub-categories & HS mapping

Typical exportable lines:

• Women’s/men’s apparel (kurtas, tunics, dresses, sarees, dupattas, shirts, kidswear): classify as garments under HS Chapters 61/62 (not under 5810), per HS rules (garment heading takes precedence over fabric).
  
• Embroidered piece goods/yardage, badges & motifs: HS 5810 (5810.10 “without visible ground”; 5810.91 cotton; 5810.92 MMF; 5810.99 other). Note: for 5810 with visible ground, the ground fabric determines the fibre subheading.
  

Exports & markets

• India’s exports of HS 5810 (embroidery in the piece/strips/motifs) were ~US$173 million in 2023; top destinations include Italy, France, USA (HS-specific and consistent with fashion/apparel demand).
  
• Finished Chikankari garments ship under Chapters 61/62 and contribute to India’s broader RMG exports, which formed the largest share of Textiles & Apparel exports in FY 2024-25 (Apr–Oct).
  

Quality & craftsmanship (what to spec and how to check)

• Signature stitches (expect to see): bakhiya (shadow work), phanda, murri, tepchi, jaali (openwork), plus dozens of variants; pieces often combine flat, raised/embossed and jaali groups.
  
• Material choices: traditionally fine cotton/muslin and organdie; today also georgette, chiffon, silk/organza, viscose—chosen to highlight the shadow effect.
  
• Process controls: block print of patterns with fugitive paste → hand-stitching by specialists → gentle desizing/soap wash and finishing; look for even, tight knots, clean jaali (no cut threads), consistent shadow effect on sheer bases.
  

Testing/inspection (common buyer asks):

• Colour fastness to washing and rubbing: ISO 105-C06 and 105-X12.
  
• Sampling inspection: ISO 2859-1 AQL (e.g., AQL 2.5 for majors) at pre-shipment.

Compliance & labelling (key markets)

• EU: fibre-content labelling per Reg. (EU) 1007/2011; care symbols follow ISO 3758:2023 (via GINETEX).
  
• EU/UK chemicals: REACH Annex XVII, Entry 43 restricts azo colourants that can release certain aromatic amines (>30 mg/kg). Ensure azo-free dyestuffs and keep test reports.
  
• USA: FTC Textile Fiber Rule (16 CFR 303)—generic fibre names, % by weight, company/RN, country of origin; Care Labeling Rule (16 CFR 423)—wash/dry-clean instructions.
  
• India authenticity programs (optional value-adds): Handloom Mark (for hand-woven bases) and India Handloom Brand endorsements; useful for provenance and retail confidence.
  

India/Lucknow strengths

• Deep skill base & division of labour (printers, embroiderers, washers) honed over centuries; dense supply chain lowers MOQs and supports complex stitch mixes.
  
• Cultural signature aesthetics (shadow work on sheer pastels; floral buta/bel motifs) tied to Lucknow’s Nawabi heritage and now protected under GI—useful for storytelling and IP defence.
  
• Seasonal versatility: airy cotton/muslin lines for summer; silk/organza and embellished variants for occasionwear—aligns with EU/US Spring-Summer buys and South-Asian festive drops.
  

Practical buy-spec 

• Base fabric: 100% cotton voile/muslin (specify gsm and thread count) or silk/organza; dyestuff: azo-free (declare to REACH Entry 43).
  
• Embroidery: hand Chikankari with named stitches (bakhiya, murri, phanda, jaali); min. stitch density per motif; no machine satin-stitch substitutes.
  
• Workmanship AQL: ISO 2859-1 (e.g., AQL 2.5 majors / 4.0 minors)
  
• Tests: ISO 105-C06 washing ≥4/5; ISO 105-X12 dry 4 / wet 3–4 (or buyer standard).
  
• Labels: EU 1007/2011 fibre disclosure + ISO 3758 care symbols; US shipments follow 16 CFR 303/423.