What it is (craft + origin)

• Kosa (Tussar) silk = wild silk from Antheraea mylitta, reared on host trees arjun, asan, sal across central-eastern India (incl. Chhattisgarh). Gives a naturally warm, golden-beige fibre with a slightly textured hand—ideal for shawls/stoles
  
• GI status: Champa Silk Saree & Fabrics (Application 172)—covers Kosa silk fabrics from Janjgir-Champa/Raigarh; this underpins provenance claims for Kosa shawls woven in Chhattisgarh.
  
• State retail proof: Chhattisgarh’s handloom corporations list Tussur Kosa and Ghicha silk shawls in their catalogues.
  

Exports & HS mapping

• HS 6214 (shawls, scarves, mufflers… woven): India exported ≈ US$306 million in 2023; top importers of Indian 6214 items include the EU, France, US, Italy, Switzerland—good targets for Kosa shawls.
  
• (If you sell as fabric lengths rather than finished shawls, use HS 5007 for woven silk fabrics; but finished shawls are typically 6214.)

Quality, specs & compliance (what buyers ask for)

• Authenticity labels:
  – Silk Mark (Central Silk Board/SMOI) to certify 100% silk content on Kosa/Ghicha shawls.
  – Handloom Mark for hand-woven bases.
  
• Dye/chemicals: meet EU REACH Annex XVII restrictions on azo dyes (Entry 43). Buyers commonly request “azo-free” test reports.
  
• Usual textile tests (specify in POs): colorfastness to washing/rubbing/light, dimensional stability, pilling; attach Silk-Mark label IDs and Handloom-Mark numbers. (Schemes above define authenticity scope.)
  

Why India/Chhattisgarh (region strengths)

• Material edge: The Antheraea mylitta–arjun/asan/sal ecosystem is native to this belt; CTR&TI (Ranchi) and CSB research explicitly document these host plants and tasar culture—supporting an origin story and stable raw silk access.
  
• Protected provenance: The GI on Champa Silk Saree & Fabrics enables traceable Kosa fabrics for shawls, reinforcing authenticity claims in export markets.
  
• State marketing channels: Chhattisgarh handloom boards actively retail Kosa/Ghicha shawls, simplifying organized sourcing.
  

Practical buyer checklist

1. Product: Kosa (Tussar) silk shawl, gsm, size; weave (plain/twill), border pattern; finish.
   
2. Authenticity: Silk Mark label ID; Handloom Mark ID (if hand-woven).
   
3. Compliance: Azo dyes per REACH Annex XVII; request test report (Entry 43).
   
4. HS & docs: HS 6214 (finished shawls); declare “Kosa/Tussar silk—Chhattisgarh (GI: Champa Silk & Fabrics)” in description lines for provenance.
   
5. Packaging: flat-pack or roll; moisture barrier; shade-card or lab-dip approvals attached.
   

Quick numbers

• India 6214 exports (2023): ≈ US$306 m (shawls/scarves category).
  
• Top importers of Indian 6214 (2023): EU, France, US, Italy, Switzerland.