Cross-cutting export lens (closest official bucket)

• In India’s handicraft export basket, “Embroidered & crocheted goods” is the nearest official segment for these crafts. Provisional EPCH data show this segment at ₹4,120.85 crore (Apr–Feb FY25) within handicrafts; total handicrafts were ₹29,391.18 crore. IBEF
  
• EPCH’s FY26 Q1 review notes embroidered & crocheted goods declined ~10.1% YoY in Apr–Jun FY26 (a short-term snapshot for context). epch.in
  
• Typical HS classification: HS 5810 (Embroidery in the piece, in strips or in motifs). Finished apparel with embroidery classifies under the relevant Ch. 61/62 garment headings (e.g., 6206 for woven blouses), not under 5810. wcoomd.orgUSITCFlexport
  

1) Chikankari (Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh)

What it is / quality signatures
Fine, often white-on-white embroidery worked on muslin, voile, georgette, etc., using a repertoire of stitches such as tepchi, bakhiya (shadow work), jali, phanda, murri, giving a delicate, shaded effect prized for breathability and finesse. (Government craft profiles emphasise Chikankari’s association with Lucknow’s nazakat and nafasat.) textilescommittee.nic.inIndian Culture

Region-specific factors & heritage

• GI protection: “Lucknow Chikan Craft” (App. No. 119) registered as a GI (Uttar Pradesh). IP India
  
• Scale & ecosystem: Textiles Committee (Govt. of India) notes ~2.5 lakh artisans involved across apparel and home lines, reflecting a dense local skills base. textilescommittee.nic.in
  

Buyer-facing quality notes

• Fabric handle and transparency (shadow-work definition) are key differentiators.
  
• Typical tests buyers ask: colour fastness to washing (ISO 105-C06) and rubbing (ISO 105-X12). ISO+1
  
• Chemical compliance: ensure azo amines banned under EU REACH Annex XVII (Entry 43); for children’s apparel into the US: CPSIA lead content ≤100 ppm. textileexcellence.comU.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
  

2) Phulkari (Punjab)

What it is / quality signatures
A counted darn stitch embroidery on handwoven khaddar (cotton) using floss silk (pat), producing all-over geometric fields (bagh) or ceremonial types such as Vari-da-Bagh (bridal cloth). Indian Culture

Region-specific factors & heritage

• GI protection: “Phulkari” (App. No. 27)—registered for Punjab, Haryana & Rajasthan (reflecting historic diffusion across greater Punjab). IP India
  
• Cultural role: bridal/wedding textiles and dowry heirlooms; museum-documented (e.g., MAP’s Vari-da-Bagh overview).
  

Buyer-facing quality notes

• Characteristic dense floss-silk coverage demands checks for seam slippage and snagging as well as colour fastness (ISO 105 series) for bright reds/oranges. ISO
  
• Azo/amine restrictions (REACH Annex XVII) apply to dyed components; nickel-release limits matter if metal trims/fittings are used. textileexcellence.comreachonline.eu
  

3) Kantha (West Bengal)

What it is / quality signatures
Running-stitch embroidery worked in layered cloths to create rippled textures and pictorial/lotus/geometric motifs; historically an upcycling tradition turning old saris/dhotis into quilts (nakshi kantha). Indian CultureVogue Business

Region-specific factors & heritage

• GI protection: “Nakshi Kantha” (App. No. 52) registered for West Bengal. IP India
  
• Government craft hubs: West Bengal MSME Dept. recognises Kantha clusters and craft hubs, reflecting sustained state support. WBMSME+1
  

Buyer-facing quality notes

• Evaluate stitch density and evenness, panel joining, and wash/rub fastness for richly dyed threads (ISO 105-C06 / X12). ISO+1
  
• Sustainability story (repair/reuse origins) is a strong brand lever in premium markets. Vogue Business
  

4) Kutch Embroidery (Gujarat)

What it is / quality signatures
A family of community-coded styles—Rabari, Ahir, Mutwa, Soof, Pakko, etc.—with mirror-work (abhla bharat), chain/soof stitches and vibrant colour contrasts. Community-specific motifs (animals, temples, florals; geometric “soof” fills) are distinctive. kutchcraftcollective.comPeepulTree World

Region-specific factors & heritage

• GI protection: “Kutch Embroidery” (App. No. 103) registered for Gujarat. IP India
  
• Technique and mirror use link to Kutch’s desert culture; mirrors are also used architecturally (lippan kaam), underscoring a broader visual tradition. Dsource
  

Buyer-facing quality notes

• Inspect mirror anchoring (edge security, back-side finishing), thread abrasion resistance, and colour fastness (ISO 105 tests). ISO
  
• Ensure non-textile trims meet regulations: nickel-release for metal parts per EU REACH Annex XVII Entry 27. reachonline.eu
  

Compliance & specs checklist

• HS reference: 5810 for embroidery “in the piece”; finished garments fall under their own HTS/ITC(HS) garment headings (Ch. 61/62). wcoomd.orgUSITC
  
• Color fastness: ISO 105-C06 (washing) and ISO 105-X12 (rubbing) commonly specified. ISO+1
  
• Chemical limits:
  
  • EU REACH Annex XVII (Entry 43): banned azo amines generated from certain azo dyes. textileexcellence.com
    
  • EU REACH Annex XVII (Entry 27): nickel release ≤0.5 µg/cm²/week for articles in direct & prolonged skin contact (zips, rivets, metal trims). reachonline.eu
    
  • US (CPSIA) for children’s items: total lead ≤100 ppm in accessible components. U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
    

Why they’re uniquely Indian/regional (quick contrasts)

• Chikankari (Lucknow): minute shadow-work on fine, often sheer cottons—an aesthetic tied to Awadhi courtly taste and hot-weather wearability. textilescommittee.nic.in
  
• Phulkari (Punjab): floss-silk darn stitch on khaddar; ceremonial baghs (e.g., Vari-da-Bagh) tied to wedding rites and agrarian symbolism. Indian Culture
  
• Kantha (West Bengal): running stitch textures and upcycling ethos—distinct sustainability narrative rooted in domestic reuse. Indian CultureVogue Business
  

Kutch Work (Gujarat): mirror-work + community styles (Rabari/Ahir/Mutwa/Soof/Pakko), reflecting Kutch’s multi-community desert culture. kutchcraftcollective.com