What a Gamocha is (and why it’s “of Assam”)

• The Assamese Gamocha is a hand-woven rectangular cotton textile, traditionally white with red borders/motifs, used as a towel, ceremonial offering, or scarf; premium variants are woven in Pat silk. Museums/scholarship describe the canonical form (white ground, red borders and end-motifs).
  
• It is GI-protected as “Gamosa of Assam”—the registered Geographical Indication held by the Directorate of Handloom & Textiles, Govt. of Assam (App. No. 594). A later filing “Assamese Gamocha” (App. 682) was withdrawn; the operative GI is the 594 entry.
  
• The Assam government and national media confirm the Dec 2022 decision/notification of the GI, noting its cultural centrality and that multiple types are recognized under the registration.
  

Typical types you’ll encounter (useful for specs/assortment): Uka/Xadharon (plain), Phulam (floral), Bihuwan (presentation), Tiani/Pani, Anakota, Telos, Dora-Boron/Jor, Gossain—these are the named variants cited around the GI registration. Size bands often run ~1.30–1.85 m × 0.60–0.85 m depending on use.

Where it’s woven

While silk weaving concentrates in Sualkuchi, cotton Gamocha weaving is widespread across Assam’s handloom belt (Directorate of Handloom & Textiles/Assam). The state actively procures handloom-made Gamocha for official use, strengthening demand and provenance control.

How to classify for export

Classification depends on how you market and construct the article:

• As a scarf/stole-like article → HS 6214 “Shawls, scarves, mufflers…” (Indian tariff mirrors and many customs rulings consider rectangular, non-terry, scarf-like articles here).
  
• As towel/toilet/kitchen linen (non-terry cotton) → HS 6302 “Bed, table, toilet & kitchen linen” (use the “other, of cotton” sublines for flat-woven towelling).
  

Practical note: If the SKU is sold/labelled as a ceremonial scarf (gift/presentation), 6214 is typically more defensible; if sold as a towel/linen, 6302 fits better. Align the description, labeling, and invoice to the intended use.

Export picture

India’s 2023 exports (mirror data):

• HS 6214 Shawls & scarves ≈ US$306 million.
  
• HS 6302 Bed/table/toilet/kitchen linen ≈ US$1.79 billion (a broad basket that includes non-terry towels/linens).

Quality profile & strengths

• Identity & story: instantly recognizable white-and-red aesthetic; deep ceremonial use (Bihu, welcomes, honours) for brand storytelling.
  
• Handloom authenticity: GI status + Handloom Mark labeling can protect against power-loom replicas and support premium positioning.
  
• Material feel: breathable, quick-dry cotton (Pat-silk occasion versions exist), typically plain-weave with selvedge edges—good for giftable “culture” SKUs and travel retail.
  

What to write into your RFQs/POs

Product name: “Assamese Gamocha — [type: Uka/Phulam/Bihuwan/etc.] (GI product)”
Dimensions: [e.g., 1.75 m × 0.75 m; buyer standard sizes are typically 1.30–1.85 m × 0.60–0.85 m].
Fibre & make: 100% cotton, hand-woven; selvedge on long sides; end borders with [motif pack]. (If Pat-silk variant, declare fibre blend and consider Silk-Mark.)
Finish: pre-washed (to control shrinkage/dye bleed); soft hand (no harsh sizing).
Labelling: country of origin = India; Handloom Mark label; GI mention (and Authorized-User details if co-branding GI).
HS guidance: 6214 (scarves/mufflers) or 6302 (toilet/kitchen linen—non-terry), per offer sheet.

Testing & compliance (standard buyer asks)

• Colour fastness: to washing ISO 105-C06, to rubbing ISO 105-X12; add perspiration ISO 105-E04 for wearable use.
  
• Azo dyes (EU REACH Annex XVII, Entry 43): 22 aromatic amines ≤ 30 mg/kg in textiles contacting skin.
  
• EU fibre-labelling (if selling in EU): Reg. (EU) 1007/2011 (declare fibre %). US: FTC Textile Fiber Rules (label fibre %, COO, responsible party).
  

Sourcing & provenance controls

• GI check: Use the GI Registry record (“Gamosa of Assam”, App. 594) for documentation; avoid the withdrawn “Assamese Gamocha” (App. 682).
  
• State channels: Directorate of Handloom & Textiles (Assam) runs programs and procurement for Gamocha, useful for vendor vetting and origin assurance.
  
• Cluster note: silk-rich ceremonial Gamosas are often woven around Sualkuchi (the “Manchester of Assam”); cotton Gamocha production is widespread across Assam’s handloom districts.
  

Quick FAQ (for internal decks)

• How big is the article? Most retail Gamosas sit between 1.30–1.85 m × 0.60–0.85 m; include a compact “guest” size for gifting.
  
• Is it a scarf or a towel? Both—classify by intended use (6214 vs 6302) and keep product labeling/invoice consistent.
  
• How do we protect authenticity? Pair GI provenance with Handloom Mark on hangtags/labels.