Tussar Silk — Godda, Jharkhand

India’s Export Ready Clusters

Snapshot

  • Why Jharkhand’s Tussar silk is iconic: Jharkhand, especially the Godda and Bhagalpur belt, is one of India’s largest producers of Tussar (Tasar) silk—a non-mulberry silk with a rich golden sheen, coarse texture, and high breathability. It’s often called “Wild Silk” because it is produced by silkworms that feed on wild forest leaves (Asan, Arjun, and Sal trees).
  • Cluster identity: Godda has been identified as an ODOP (One District One Product) district for Tussar silk. The region supports a complete value chain—from sericulture and cocoon production to yarn spinning and weaving—making it a powerhouse for sustainable and traceable silk sourcing.
  • Global appeal: Tussar silk’s natural texture and organic story make it highly desirable in luxury apparel, eco-conscious fashion, and interior textiles markets in Japan, Europe, and the US.

Product Range

CategoryKey Products
Sarees & DupattasHandwoven Tussar silk sarees, stoles, dupattas with tribal motifs and zari borders.
Fabric YardagePure Tussar, Tussar-cotton blends, Tussar-ghicha for apparel designers.
Home FurnishingsCushion covers, drapes, upholstery, and bedspreads.
AccessoriesScarves, neckties, handbags, and fashion accessories.
Designer CollaborationsEco-printed and natural-dyed fabrics for sustainable couture.

Craft Technique

StepDetails
SericultureThe Antheraea mylitta silkworms are reared in Jharkhand forests; cocoons are collected by tribal communities.
Yarn PreparationCocoons are boiled, degummed, and spun manually or on reeling machines. Ghicha (waste silk) yarn is also hand-spun.
WeavingTraditional pit looms and frame looms used; tribal motifs and zari borders added manually.
DyeingNatural and AZO-free dyes used; eco-printing techniques gaining popularity.
Texture SignatureDistinctly coarse yet lustrous, with a matte-golden glow ideal for artisanal luxury.

Materials & Sustainability

  • Material Source: 100% forest-based, non-mulberry silk; minimal chemical inputs.
  • Eco Advantage:
    • Wild silk rearing does not harm silkworms (many artisans practice Ahimsa/peace silk methods).
    • Fully handcrafted, low-energy production.
  • Social Impact: Supports tribal livelihoods, particularly Santhal, Munda, and Oraon communities.
  • Circular Economy: Ghicha (silk waste) is repurposed for rustic fabrics.

Cluster Infrastructure

  • Core Production Zones: Godda, Dumka, Deoghar, Pakur, and Sahebganj districts.
  • Cocoon Supply Hubs:
    • Forest-rich belts near Ranchi, Chaibasa, and Hazaribagh supply raw cocoons.
  • Institutional Support:
    • Jharkhand Silk Technical Development Institute (JSTDI) for skill training.
    • Jharkhand State Khadi & Village Industries Board for marketing and cluster development.
    • Central Silk Board for R&D, silk quality testing, and traceability solutions.
  • ODOP Branding: Godda district Tussar silk promoted under ODOP to increase domestic and export visibility.
  • Export Link: Fabrics consolidated in Bhagalpur (Bihar) for finishing and shipping to Mumbai/Delhi ports.

Compliance & Certifications

  • Handloom Mark: Certifies authenticity of handwoven products.
  • Silk Mark: Verifies purity of silk fiber and yarn.
  • Eco Labels: Exporters comply with OEKO-TEX® and GOTS standards for dyes and finishing.
  • ODOP Certification: Jharkhand Tussar is branded under ODOP for traceability and cluster promotion.
  • Fair-Trade Practices: NGO-backed initiatives ensure equitable artisan wages.

Production Timelines & MOQs

Product TypeSampling Lead TimeBulk Lead TimeMOQ Guidance
Sarees & Dupattas7–10 days4–6 weeks25–50 pcs/style
Yardage Fabric7–10 days4–6 weeks100–200 meters/style
Home Furnishings10–14 days6–8 weeks50–100 pcs/style
Designer Custom Orders2–3 weeks8–12 weeksMade-to-order

Branding & Packaging

  • Branding: Silk Mark, Handloom Mark, ODOP tags, and QR-coded artisan traceability cards.
  • Packaging:
    • Sarees and dupattas in muslin covers with moisture-proof wrapping.
    • Yardage roll-packed in eco-paper and kraft cartons.
    • Premium wooden or eco-board boxes for luxury collections.
  • Narrative Marketing: Branding emphasizes tribal artistry, eco-conscious sericulture, and handmade excellence.

Quality Control (IndiaUnbox Protocol)

  • Silk Purity: Yarn fineness and micron testing for authenticity.
  • Weaving Consistency: Warp/weft alignment and border detailing checks.
  • Color Fastness: Natural dye testing (wash and rub fastness).
  • Packaging QC: Moisture and crease protection to preserve fabric texture during global shipping.

Price Drivers

  • Yarn type (pure Tussar vs Ghicha vs blends).
  • Border work (plain vs zari) and motif complexity.
  • Natural dyeing and eco-printing processes.
  • Artisan pedigree and limited-batch production.

Buyer Confidence Signals

  • ODOP branding: Recognized nationally as a flagship product of Godda district.
  • Sustainability: 100% eco-friendly, handcrafted production with forest-based silk.
  • Global Demand: Tussar silk is highly valued for luxury resort wear, couture, and eco-conscious interior textiles.

Traceable Supply Chain: Cocoon sourcing, weaving villages, and artisan names easily traceable for buyers.

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