What they are & where they come from
- Juttis (also called mojari/khussa) are hand-crafted slip-on flats from North India. Traditional pairs are fully leather (upper + sole) with hand embroidery; modern variants often add textile uppers or rubber/EVA soles. Distinctive features include an M-shaped vamp and (traditionally) no left/right distinction—they “break in” to the wearer’s feet.
Indian production clusters: Punjab (Amritsar, Patiala) and Rajasthan (Jaipur, Jodhpur, Bikaner, Jaisalmer) are the main craft belts; government cluster programs explicitly list a Punjabi Juti Cluster.
GI status (Aug 21, 2025): “Punjabi Jutti” had a GI application (No. 414) that is abandoned; “Mojari Craft of Jodhpur (Rajasthan)” is under examination—i.e., not registered yet. Plan branding and IP claims accordingly.
How to classify for trade
Juttis span two headings depending on the upper material:
| Typical build | HS heading (6-digit) | Description (chapter 64) |
| Leather upper; outsole of rubber/plastic/leather | 6403 | Footwear with outer soles of rubber, plastics, leather or composition leather and uppers of leather. |
| Textile upper (embroidered fabric etc.); outsole of rubber/plastic/leather | 6404 | Footwear with outer soles of rubber, plastics, leather or composition leather and uppers of textile materials. |
Tip: If you buy mixed compositions across SKUs, keep product master data split by HS (6403 vs 6404) from the start to avoid customs rework.
India export snapshot
- India’s footwear & leather products exports in FY 2023–24 were about US$4.69 billion (Council for Leather Exports; reported Dec 22 2024).
- In FY 2024–25, exports rose ~25% to ~US$5.7 billion (CLE). Leading destinations include the US (~20%), UK and Germany.
- Footwear accounts for ~52% of total leather-sector exports.
Juttis themselves are not separately reported, but most leather-upper styles sit in HS 6403; fabric-upper styles in HS 6404. Use these headings when sizing demand and tariffs.
Craft, materials & construction
- Uppers: single-piece leather (panna) or textile, often with hand-done embroidery (zardozi, gota, resham). Lining/edge reinforcements use thin leather (goath).
- Sole: stacked/pasted leather layers (tāla), sometimes with a small heel layer (edī); modern export lines may substitute rubber/EVA for durability.
- Joining: hand stitching with cotton thread (sutt) or machine stitch; traditional pastes (lai) used in parts.
Regional aesthetics (India-specific strengths):
- Punjab (Amritsar/Patiala): “Tilla jutti” with metallic embroidery; prominent M-front (panna) and floral motifs.
- Rajasthan (Jaipur/Jodhpur/Bikaner): Pointed mojari toes, punched/leather-appliqué designs; extensive family artisan networks and active govt cluster support.
Quality & performance
Fit & build
- Confirm left/right symmetry or shaped lasts (some export lines now supply L/R pairs). Communicate fit guidance—traditional pairs loosen to foot.
- Stitch density, edge finishing (bhanj), and clean bonding are key visible quality markers.
Suggested lab tests (choose per SKU risk):
- Outsole abrasion — ISO 20871.
- Whole-shoe/sole flex (cut-growth resistance) — ISO 17707 / SATRA TM161 (widely used benchmarks).
- Colour/trim fastness (for dyed textiles/leather): follow buyer RSL + relevant ISO/EN methods; India’s FDDI and CSIR-CLRI labs can test to international standards and are NABL/ISO 17025 accredited.
Where to test in India
- FDDI International Testing Centres (Govt. institute; ISO/IEC 17025 NABL-accredited; SATRA associated).
- CSIR-CLRI (national leather research institute; broad footwear/leather testing capability).
Compliance & chemical safety
- EU/UK REACH — Chromium VI in leather (Entry 47): leather articles/parts in contact with skin must be < 3 mg/kg (tested typically by EN/ISO 17075). In force in EU since 1 May 2015; mirrored in UK REACH.
- EU/UK REACH — Azo dyes (Entry 43): 22 aromatic amines < 30 mg/kg; harmonised test methods (e.g., ISO 17234-1 for leather).
Practical sourcing note: If you order chrome-tanned leather uppers, ask for supplier declarations and periodic 3rd-party tests for Cr(VI) and banned amines; vegetable- or metal-free tanning can reduce risk but still verify.
India export procedural update (context): In May–June 2025, Government of India removed mandatory CLRI testing and port restrictions for leather (hides) exports to ease procedures. Finished footwear was not the target of those rules, but this change signals smoother logistics across leather supply chains.
Packaging, labelling & care (what works for Juttis)
- Use shape-holding stuffers/inserts; avoid pigment transfer by interleaving tissue for richly dyed uppers/linings (common with jutti embroidery).
- Mark material composition (upper/lining/sock/outsole) for destination labelling norms; retain HS split per 6403/6404 for customs paperwork.
Why source from India for Juttis (strengths summary)
- Authenticity & story: centuries-old craft with identifiable regional signatures (Punjab & Rajasthan), valued by diaspora and global fashion.
- Testing & compliance ecosystem: accessible, accredited labs (FDDI, CLRI) that can test to ISO/SATRA and REACH-aligned methods.
- Export momentum & market access: strong footwear export base with growth in FY 2024-25 and established routes to the US, UK, EU.
Quick sourcing spec
- Product: Women’s embroidered jutti (state whether L/R shaped or traditional symmetric).
- Materials: Upper (leather/textile); lining/sock; outsole (leather or rubber/EVA). Declare exact composition for HS classification.
- Workmanship: clean edge finishing (bhanj), stitch density ≥ agreed spec, secure trim attachment.
- Tests: ISO 20871 abrasion (outsole); ISO 17707 (flex); colour fastness as applicable.
- Chemicals: REACH Annex XVII Entries 47 (Cr VI <3 mg/kg) & 43 (azo amines <30 mg/kg); use EN/ISO 17075 and ISO 17234-1.
Labelling/Docs: Composition label; HS heading 6403 or 6404; test reports from FDDI/CLRI/NABL-accredited labs.
