What it is

• Srikalahasti Kalamkari: freehand, pen-painted textiles and temple hangings using a bamboo kalam and natural dyes; GI-registered from Andhra Pradesh.
  
• Machilipatnam/Pedana Kalamkari: vegetable-dyed block prints carved on teak blocks; also GI-registered from Andhra Pradesh.
  

Export snapshot

Kalamkari exports are counted under the handicraft segment “handprinted textiles & scarves.” India exported ₹2,475.07 crore (≈US$ 293.3 million) of this segment in FY25 (Apr–Feb, provisional). Top destinations for Indian handicrafts include the USA (≈40.85% share), UK, Germany, UAE, Netherlands, France; Australia is a significant buyer specifically for handprinted textiles.

Why it’s region-specific to India

• Distinct techniques & motifs
  
  • Srikalahasti: narrative, temple-tradition panels (epics, deities) painted entirely by hand with natural dyes
    
  • Machilipatnam/Pedana: export-era chintz lineage with Persianate florals, achieved via vegetable-dye block printing; blocks are traditionally teak; process includes myrobalan/buffalo-milk prep and sequential prints/boils.
    
• Natural dye knowledge (regional recipes) — black from iron + jaggery, blues from indigo, yellows from myrobalan/pomegranate, reds from alizarin/madder; multi-stage washing/mordanting.
  
• Supporting ecosystems
  
  • Pedana is also a major block-carving hub feeding Kalamkari printing (large specialist units operate there).
    
  • State bodies (e.g., Lepakshi, Govt. of Andhra Pradesh) actively retail & promote Kalamkari prints and paintings.
    

Quality profile & strengths

• Eco-story (natural dyes): vegetable/mineral dyes with traditional mordants and open-vat/copper-pot processing; compelling for low-chemical and heritage positioning.
  
• Artisanal depth: handwork (pen-painted narrative panels or hand-aligned block repeats) yields micro-variations prized in premium home & fashion.
  
• GI assurance: both Srikalahasti (App. No. 28) and Machilipatnam (App. No. 90) are listed in the official GI Registry, supporting provenance claims in marketing/compliance files
  
• Cluster capacity: formal clusters operate under national/state schemes (e.g., SFURTI lists a Kalamkari cluster in Chittoor with ~300 artisans), supporting aggregation and common facilities.
  

Typical products & buyer use-cases

• Textiles & fashion: yardage, saris/dupattas, stoles, apparel panels (Machilipatnam prints; Srikalahasti borders/pallus).
  
• Home & decor: wall hangings, panels, table linens, cushion covers (temple-style narratives; floral repeats).
  

Compliance & testing

• Chemicals: EU REACH Annex XVII (Entry 43) restricts azo colourants that release listed aromatic amines >30 mg/kg in textiles/leather with prolonged skin contact—natural-dye Kalamkari typically markets well here but test each colorway.
  
• India import policy (context for inbound tests and brand harmonisation) requires azo-dye compliance with PSC certification for textiles; useful to mirror these checks for exports too.
  
• Recommended quality tests (ISO 105 series) for buyers:
  
  • Colour fastness to washing (ISO 105-C06), perspiration (ISO 105-E04), rubbing/crocking (ISO 105-X12).
    

HS classification

• Printed cotton fabrics (yardage): HS 5208/5209 (printed woven cotton; depending on weight/content).
  
• Furnishing articles (table linen, wall hangings made-ups): HS 6304.
  
• Shawls/scarves: HS 6214.
  
• Original hand-painted artworks on textile that qualify as paintings may fall under HS 9701 (varies by customs rulings).
  

Sourcing pointers

• Ask for: GI-linked provenance (artisan group/cluster), natural-dye recipe sheet per colour, washing/crocking test reports (ISO grades), and batch shade-card approval (natural-dye lot variation is normal).
  
• Where to start (public sector channels): Lepakshi Handicrafts (AP Govt) for both Kalamkari prints and paintings; they curate GI crafts and can connect to producer groups