Exports snapshot

• India’s silk & silk goods exports were ₹2,027.56 crore in 2023–24 (DGCIS), per the Government of India.
  
• In FY25 (Apr–Dec), India exported US$ 215 million of silk & silk products. Within that, natural silk yarn/fabrics & made-ups formed ~44.6% and silk readymade garments ~28.1%. Top importers in this period included the UAE, USA, China, UK, Italy, Singapore, Australia, France, Germany, and Nepal. These groupings include silk sarees. IBEF
  

Watch HS Chapter 50 (silk; esp. 5007 woven silk fabrics) and 6204/6211 for sarees/apparel in partner dashboards. (DGCIS/CSB report silk at category level; saree-only breakouts aren’t published separately.)

Region & GI (why Kanchipuram is special to India)

• Kanchipuram Silk is GI-registered (2005–06) by India’s Geographical Indications Registry; only sarees produced in the notified region and meeting the registered specs can be sold as “Kanchipuram”.
  
• Tamil Nadu’s official district note reiterates GI norms—standards on weight and zari and production within Kanchipuram
  

Weave hallmarks & quality parameters

Korvai construction (border–body interlock)

• Authentic Kanchipuram features a korvai join: body and borders are woven separately and interlocked (often on three-shuttle looms); the pallu is typically attached by the petni method. This is the classic contrast-border look
  

Baseline yarn/sett targets used in India Handloom Brand (IHB)

• IHB’s official quality table lists “Kanchipuram Silk Saree: 18/20D–20/22D (4-ply) silk warp with ~96 ends per inch; weft 18/20D–20/22D (6–10-ply) with ~52–48 picks per inch; standard size ~5.5 m × 47 in.” Use this as a floor in RFQs (designs may exceed it).
  

Zari

• IHB allows pure or tested zari; ensure fastness/chemical parameters are met and declare composition. For traditional “real” zari, BIS IS 2767:1984 specifies gold thread (silver base)—useful when premium compositions are requested.
  

Compliance & authentication

• Silk Mark (Central Silk Board/SMOI): authentication label with unique serial/QR—ask suppliers to affix and share label numbers for verification.
  
• Handloom Mark (Govt. of India/Textiles Committee) for hand-woven provenance—pair it with Silk Mark on product + carton to communicate authenticity.
  
• Chemicals: EU REACH Annex XVII (Entry 43) restricts azo dyes that release 22 listed amines; align test methods to harmonised standards and include ISO 105 fastness testing (wash—C06; rub—X12).
  
• Labelling: follow India’s IS 15798 for consumer textile labelling requirements when relevant (fibre content, care, size, etc.), alongside destination-market rules.
  

Cluster capacity & sourcing advantages

• Scale: Tamil Nadu hosts ~1.91 lakh handlooms with ~2.44 lakh weavers & allied workers (state totals), underpinning capacity and sampling speed.
  
• Kanchipuram cluster: a baseline field survey (2018) estimated ~50,000 operational looms and turnover >₹350 crore—illustrating density and specialisation (korvai, broad borders, heavy gram mage).
  

What to put in your RFQ

Product build

• Construction: Handloom korvai saree; body–border interlock evident on reverse; pallu attached by petni.
  
• Size: ≥5.5 m × 47 in (without blouse piece) or as agreed. Sett: ≥EPI 96 / PPI 52; warp 18/20D–20/22D (4-ply) mulberry silk; weft 18/20D–20/22D (6–10 ply). (IHB floor—designers may specify higher.)
  
• Zari: Pure (gold over silver) or tested zari; declare base metals and g/m; attach supplier composition certificate. (For pure zari references see IS 2767:1984.)
  

Compliance & tests

• Marks: Silk Mark label (serials shared before shipment) + Handloom Mark on label/carton; GI mention permissible only if supplier is an authorised Kanchipuram GI user (capture AU number)
  
• Chemicals: REACH Annex XVII Entry 43 azo dyes—Not Detected per harmonised method; formaldehyde per buyer market; Nickel/lead not applicable to fabric but ensure no restricted metals in zari/dyes.
  
• Fastness: ISO 105-C06 (wash) ≥ 4/5; ISO 105-X12 (rub) ≥ 4 dry / ≥ 3–4 wet (or buyer standard).
  
• Labelling: care/fibre content per IS 15798 + destination rules (EU Textiles Reg., US FTC).
  

Documentation

• GI authorised-user certificate copy; Silk Mark license copy; dyestuff disclosure; zari composition; COC citing handloom origin.
  

Positioning & buyer-facing strengths

• Provenance you can prove: trio of GI (region), Silk Mark (fibre purity), Handloom Mark (weave) supports premium claims and counters imitation/power-loom lookalikes.
• Distinctive aesthetics: Korvai contrast borders, temple motifs, and richly woven pallus are uniquely South-Indian and hard to replicate outside the cluster—ideal for bridal and occasionwear lines.