What & where: Kanpur–Unnao is India’s flagship saddlery & harness cluster (ODOP district: Kanpur Nagar; GI: Kanpur Saddlery). The ODOP portal notes Kanpur “contributes over 20% of India’s leather & leather goods exports.” The GI Registry lists “Kanpur Saddlery (Logo)” as a registered UP GI (No. 159/160), and “Kannauj Perfume (Logo)” as well (relevant below).

Exports snapshot (latest dependable numbers):

• India leather & leather products exports were US$4.6B in FY24 (DGCI&S via IBEF).
  
• Within leather, Saddlery & Harness (HS 4201) exports from Uttar Pradesh average ~US$151M (3-yr avg.) and Kanpur–Unnao account for ~98% of India’s saddlery exports (state govt. export newsletter).
  
• Globally, India exported ~US$211M of Saddlery (HS 4201) in 2023, with top markets USA, Germany, UK.
  

Quality, compliance & testing (what buyers expect):

• LWG (Leather Working Group) certification is widely used by Kanpur tanneries; e.g., Super Tannery (Kanpur) is listed as LWG-certified. LWG audits cover environmental and chemical management, which many global brands now require.
  
• Chemical compliance: EU REACH Annex XVII limits Chromium VI in leather to <3 mg/kg (EN ISO 17075 test); azo dyes yielding 22 restricted amines are banned in skin-contact leather; DMF is restricted. (These typically appear in buyer RSLs/AFIRM.)
  
• Process MRSL: Many exporters follow ZDHC MRSL 3.x for input chemistry; brands often ask for ZDHC-conformant formulations.
  
• Independent labs & institutes: FDDI provides ISO/IEC 17025 testing for footwear/leather items; CLRI supports tech transfer to the Kanpur belt.
  

Why Kanpur is strong / India-specific advantages:

• Deep equestrian specialization: The cluster has centuries of know-how in bridles, halters, girths, stirrup leathers, breastplates, reins, etc., plus integrated metalware supply (bits, buckles). (UP govt. cluster brief.)
  
• Scale & ecosystem: Dense network of tanneries, stitchers, hardware suppliers, and exporters enables small MOQs to large runs with competitive lead times; state data pegs ~270 saddlery units, many export-oriented.
  
• Policy support: ODOP and state export promotion programs (UP-EPC) target value-addition and market access for saddlery/leather.
  

Practical buyer checklist (saddlery/leather):
Specify leather type (veg-tanned bridle vs. chrome), grain selection, thickness (e.g., 3.5–4.0 mm for stirrup leathers), hardware metal & finish, colorfastness (ISO 11640/11644), seam strength (ISO 13935), and chemical compliance (REACH Annex XVII + buyer RSL/AFIRM + ZDHC MRSL). Back up with test reports (EN ISO 17075 for Cr VI; EN 14362 for azo).

Perfumes (Itr/Attar — Kannauj) — data, quality, and India-specific strengths

What & where: Kannauj (UP) is India’s “perfume capital” under ODOP, home to 200+ distilleries and the traditional deg-bhapka hydro-distillation of attars (oil-based perfumes) using bases like sandalwood oil. “Kannauj Perfume” is a registered GI (No. 157/158).

Exports snapshot (latest dependable numbers):

• Under HS 3303 (Perfumes & toilet waters), India exported ~US$228 M in 2023; key destinations include Oman, UAE, Netherlands, USA, Saudi Arabia (UN Comtrade/WITS).
  
• CHEMEXCIL shows HS 33030090 “Other perfumes & toilet waters” at US$135.7 M (2023-24) and US$137.4 M (2024-25) (Apr–Mar), indicating steady growth; synthetic perfumery compounds (33029011) also rose to US$174 M in 2024-25.
  
• Essential oils (HS 3301) are another export pillar; CHEMEXCIL lists top markets for essential oils (USA, France, UAE, etc.)
  

Quality, authenticity & testing:

• Traditional process: Deg-bhapka hydro-distillation into a sandalwood-oil base yields long-lasting natural attars like mitti (petrichor), ruh khus (vetiver), bela, gulab, kewra—signature Kannauj profiles tied to local flora and craft
  
• Standards & labs:
  
  • FFDC Kannauj (MSME) offers GLC/GC-MS analysis, training, and quality evaluation for essential oils/fragrances.
    
  • ISO 9235 defines “natural aromatic raw materials,” often cited by buyers for “100% natural” claims.
    
• Regulatory compliance (exports):
  
  • EU Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009 + Reg. (EU) 2023/1545 expands labelled fragrance allergens (now 80+); first transition deadline July 31, 2026 (sell-through to 2028). Ensure INCI/ingredient labelling aligns with target market.
    
  • US (FDA) requires ingredient declaration (21 CFR 701.3); “fragrance” may appear collectively, but allergen disclosure trends are tightening—plan variant labels per market.
    
  • Many buyers ask for IFRA Certificates of Conformity for fragrance mixtures; align with the IFRA Standards.
    

India-specific constraints & how Kannauj adapts:

• Sandalwood oil policy: Exports of sandalwood oil are restricted/licence-based under DGFT/ITC(HS); plan compliance and, where appropriate, consider non-CITES carrier bases for certain markets while preserving traditional attar lines for GI/heritage ranges.
  
• Tourism & branding push: UP Tourism/ODOP are actively promoting perfume tourism in Kannauj (FAM trips to distilleries & FFDC), helping global visibility and storytelling—useful for brand building.
  

Practical buyer checklist (attars/perfumes):
Define profile (botanical vs. compounded), base (sandalwood/DPG/other), IFRA category & max levels, allergen content (per EU Annex III), GC-MS fingerprint (for naturals), colour/stability, packaging (amber glass/aluminium), and label sets (EU/US/GCC). Use FFDC or accredited labs for COAs and ISO 9235-aligned claims.

Quick, verified takeaways

• Kanpur leather (saddlery) is GI-recognised and exports-heavy; UP govt. pegs ~98% of India’s saddlery exports to the Kanpur–Unnao belt; India’s saddlery exports ≈ US$211M (2023), led by USA/EU.
  
• Kannauj attar is GI-recognised; India exported ~US$228M of perfumes (HS 3303) in 2023; CHEMEXCIL shows continued growth in 2024-25 for perfumes and perfumery compounds.
  
• Quality levers: leather—LWG certification, REACH/AFIRM compliance; attar—deg-bhapka authenticity, FFDC GC-MS testing, IFRA/EU labelling alignment.