What it is

• Kantha is a Bengali quilting+embroidery tradition: multiple layers of old sarees/dhotis are stacked and secured with dense running-stitch quilting; motifs range from florals and paisleys to narrative scenes. Traditionally it’s “flat / unwadded” quilting (no batting), made for household use.
  
• In India, Kantha is strongly identified with West Bengal (also practiced across the Bengal region). A detailed craft entry confirms its reuse/upcycling origin and household-women’s craft context.
  
• Geographical Indication (GI): “Nakshi Kantha” (West Bengal)—Registered in India’s GI Registry (Application No. 52; Certificate No. 49, dated 21-Jan-2008, current validity posted by the state GI portal). Use this for provenance claims and labeling.
  
• Active clusters in West Bengal include Birbhum (Bolpur-Shantiniketan), Murshidabad, Malda, Purba Medinipur, North 24 Parganas, Kolkata (official artisan portal).
  
• The state’s Rural Craft & Cultural Hubs (RCCH) program (GoWB + UNESCO) supports craft enterprises across districts (Kantha among them). Useful for vendor development/scaling.
  

Why it’s region-specific

• Signature look: rhythmic ripples from dense running-stitch; figurative and geometric motifs; central lotus / ‘tree of life’ or repeat florals are common. Museums and encyclopaedias document these idioms.
  
• Sustainability story: historic upcycling of worn sarees/dhotis into quilts/throws—now a strong brand narrative for Bengal Kantha.
  
• Protected provenance: GI-registered “Nakshi Kantha” from West Bengal enables verifiable origin on labels/invoices; check authorised-user status where you co-brand.
  

Export classification (HS)

Kantha pieces are sold as “quilts/bedspreads/throws”. Customs classification depends on stuffing/batting:

• Unstuffed “flat” Kantha bedspreads/throws → HS 6304 (Other furnishing articles; bedspreads; excluding those of heading 9404). Indian tariff notes and trade pages reflect this definition.
  
• Stuffed/filled quilts & comforters (Kantha with batting/polyfill) → HS 9404 (articles of bedding; incl. quilts, eiderdowns; subheading 9404.40 “Quilts & bedspreads” in many markets; 9404.90 for “other” bedding).
  

Helpful scale context (2023):

• India’s exports of HS 9404 (all bedding: quilts, pillows, etc.) ≈ US$535 m; USA ≈ 56% of that demand.
  
• Within that, HS 9404.40 “Quilts & bedspreads”: India ≈ US$101 m, behind China & Pakistan.
  
• India’s HS 6304 “bedspreads/other furnishing articles” (where flat Kantha typically sits) ≈ US$629 m exports. (Different basket from 9404; “bedspread” appears in both headings due to stuffed vs unstuffed split.)
  

Quality & compliance: what to spec and test

Materials & make

• Layers: state exact layer count (e.g., 2–4 recycled sari layers) and whether any batting is used (if yes → 9404 line). V&A notes traditional Kantha is unwadded.
  
• Stitching: specify stitch density (stitches per inch/cm) and pattern coverage on face + reverse; Kantha’s aesthetic relies on even, ripple-like running stitches (museum sources).
  
• Colour & fabrics: because many Kantha use recycled sari fabrics, require sorting/grade rules (no stains/tears), pre-wash and colourfast dyes declarations.
  

Lab testing (global norms)

• Colour fastness: to washing (ISO 105-C06), rubbing (ISO 105-X12), perspiration (ISO 105-E04).
  
• Restricted chemicals (EU/UK):
  
  • Azo dyes (Annex XVII Entry 43)—aromatic amines ≤ 30 mg/kg; use an accredited azo test.
    
• Labelling (EU/US):
  
  • EU: fibre composition labelling under Reg. (EU) 1007/2011.
    
  • US: FTC Textile Fiber Products Identification Act / Textile Fiber Rule—label fibre %, country of origin, and responsible business (RN).
    

Authenticity marks

• For hand-woven Kantha (most artisan Kantha are hand-stitched and often handloom base cloth), require Handloom Mark labels (GoI/Textiles Committee).
  
• For silk-based Kantha SKUs (scarves, stoles, etc.), require Silk Mark (Central Silk Board/SMOI).

Sourcing pointers (clusters & institutions)

• GI/authorised users (for GI-label use, co-ops/SHGs): check WB’s GI product portal for Nakshi Kantha certificate details/validity.
  
• District clusters (for vendor pipeline): Birbhum (Bolpur-Shantiniketan), Murshidabad, Malda, Purba Medinipur, North 24 Parganas, Kolkata. The state artisan portal lists Kantha concentration by district.
  
• Program support: West Bengal RCCH (GoWB+UNESCO)—useful for training, market linkages, and enterprise formalisation.
  

Quick market brief (where it sells)

• If your Kantha is stuffed/quilted, benchmark against India’s HS 9404 exports (US$535 m in 2023; USA ≈ 56% share).
  

If it’s flat/unwadded, treat as HS 6304; India exported ~US$629 m in 2023 (broad “bedspreads/other furnishing” basket).