What it is
- Hand embroidery tradition of Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, worked on fine cottons, muslins, voile, chiffon, georgette, etc., using a distinctive stitch vocabulary (e.g., bakhiya, murri, phanda, jaali, tepchi, keel kangan). It’s a Geographical Indication registered as “Lucknow Chikan Craft” (GI App. No. 119)—certificate issued 2 Dec 2008 (valid to 06 Dec 2027).
- Process (canonical): three stages—block printing (chhapai) of the pattern (traditionally with a neel/gum paste), hand embroidery, and washing/finishing.
- Cluster & scale: Government sources note ~250,000+ artisans working across garments and home-linens; Chikan is also the ODOP (One District One Product) for Lucknow.
How it ships (HS mapping) & export proxy
Chikan pieces/sarees/yardage are generally classified by embroidery, not the garment form, unless exported as fully stitched apparel.
- Primary HS proxy: HS 5810 – “Embroidery in the piece, in strips or in motifs.” India exported ~US$173 million of HS 5810 in 2023; Italy was the largest buyer, followed by France and the USA. (Phulkari, Chikan, Zardozi, etc., are all inside 5810—so treat this as the scale proxy for Chikan.)
- If shipping finished apparel, customs may classify under the appropriate 62/61 apparel chapters (e.g., 6204), but most buyers use 5810 for embroidered panels/yardage/dupatta pieces. (Confirm with your broker.)
Quality—what defines “good Chikan” (and how to verify)
Technique & stitches (authoritative documentation):
- Chikan has ~40 named stitches; the core ones are phanda, jaali, tepchi, murri, bakhiya. These produce the classic shadow-work and airy trellis effects. Include named stitch counts/coverage in your RFQ to deter machine-look substitutes.
Process control: - Chhapai: hand block print the design (neel/berm blue+gum), dry.
- Embroidery: execute specified stitch set; keep reverse neatness and thread clipping parameters.
- Washing/finishing: remove print paste completely; control shrinkage and colourfastness if dyed.
Authenticity/assurance marks (useful for premium lines):
- GI mention on invoices/tags (Lucknow Chikan Craft).
- Handloom Mark if the base fabric is handwoven (Textiles Committee scheme). (Chikan is the embroidery; the ground can be handloom or mill—specify what you want.)
Compliance & labeling (export markets)
- EU fibre labelling: disclose fibre composition per Reg. (EU) 1007/2011 on finished products (sarees, dupattas, garments).
- Chemical restrictions (EU REACH): ensure azo dyes that release carcinogenic amines are not present; maintain conformity to Annex XVII restrictions (and retailer RSLs).
- US buyers typically follow Textile Fiber Products Identification (16 CFR 303) & care-labelling norms; EU/US both expect standard ISO 105 colourfastness testing—add to PO.
Why India/Lucknow has the edge (region-specific strengths)
- GI-anchored origin + centuries-old repertoire, patronised historically by the Nawabs of Awadh; the finishing & stitch vocabulary are place-tied know-how that’s hard to mass-replicate.
- Large trained artisan base concentrated in/around Lucknow → enables MOQs from boutique to volume.
- State support via ODOP (UP) → easier access to organized producer groups, fairs, and shared infrastructure.
Buyer-ready RFQ/PO checklist (copy-paste)
Product & HS
- Item: Lucknow Chikan-embroidered [saree/dupatta/yardage/panel].
- Origin: Lucknow Chikan Craft – GI (App. 119); include GI mention on tag/invoice.
- HS: Prefer 5810 for embroidered pieces; if stitched apparel, confirm final HS in Ch. 62/61 with broker.
Base fabric
- Fibre & weave (e.g., 100% cotton mulmul/voile or poly-georgette); GSM and EPI/PPI target for cottons; white/undyed or dyed (azo-free). (Handloom base? then demand Handloom Mark labels.)
Embroidery spec
- Stitch set & coverage: e.g., bakhiya + phanda + jaali, X stitches per 10 cm² on motifs; min. % coverage on pallu/hem; reverse neatness spec; no long floats; thread fibre (cotton/silk)
Workmanship & finishing
Testing & compliance
- Azo-free (REACH Annex XVII) test; colourfastness to wash/rub/perspiration (ISO 105 series); pH of aqueous extract (where applicable). EU 1007/2011 fibre labels (or US 16 CFR 303), care symbols per buyer norm.
