What they are & why they’re region-specific
- Muga silk (from Antheraea assamensis) is indigenous to Assam; production is essentially only in India. Larvae feed on Som (Persea bombycina) and Soalu (Litsea monopetala) trees native to Assam’s climate, giving Muga its famed natural golden lustre and durability. “Muga Silk of Assam” holds a Geographical Indication (GI).
- Eri silk (from Samia/Philosamia ricini) is a staple (spun) silk—cocoons are open-mouthed, so it is not reeled; this underpins its wool-like, warm handle and “peace/ahimsa” positioning. Assam is the principal base, with major activity also in Meghalaya (traditional Ryndia). Eri has an Assam GI, and Meghalaya’s Ryndia was GI-tagged in 2025.
Current scale & export picture
- India exported $116 m under HS Chapter 50 (Silk) in 2023, with woven silk fabrics (HS 5007) the bulk (about $63.6 m for 5007.20 “≥85% silk” fabrics). Raw silk (HS 5002) exports were modest (~$1.0 m). Spun silk yarn (HS 5005)—relevant to Eri—was ~$1.95 m, led by sales to Nepal.
- India’s FY25 (Apr–Dec 2024) production snapshot (CSB provisional): Eri 6,217 MT, Muga 187 MT (vs mulberry 23,131 MT). This underscores Eri’s availability and Muga’s scarcity/premium
HS codes
- Muga (filament-based)
• Raw silk: 5002 (Muga qualifies as non-mulberry raw silk)
• Silk yarn (not from waste): 5004 (reeled Muga yarn)
• Woven fabrics: 5007 (e.g., 5007.20.10 “Sarees”) - Eri (spun from waste/staple)
• Silk waste (inputs): 5003 (sub-lines include 50030030 Eri waste, 50030040 Muga waste)
• Yarn spun from silk waste: 5005 (typical for Eri yarns)
• Woven fabrics: 5007; shawls/stoles as made-ups: 6214.10 (silk scarves/shawls)
Classification always follows the article (yarn vs fabric vs made-up) and composition; the above shows the common lines used for Muga/Eri.
Quality profile & strengths
Muga (Assam)
- Golden colour occurs naturally (often sold undyed); high durability and prestige positioning (mekhela-chador, couture).
- Studies note high UV absorption (reported up to ~85%), supporting sun-protective marketing claims; verify per lot.
- Scarcity (2024 provisional output only ~187 MT) yields premium pricing & long lead times.
Eri / Ryndia (Assam, Meghalaya)
- Open-mouthed cocoons ⇒ spun yarn with thermal comfort; 2–2.5 denier fibre fineness cited by CSB; ideal for shawls, stoles, winterwear, upholstery blends.
- Strong sustainability & ethical story (“peace/ahimsa”), now backed by OEKO-TEX certification achieved by NEHHDC for Eri clusters (2024).
Authenticity, labels & origin control
- GI protection: Muga Silk of Assam (registered); Eri Silk (Assam) registered; Ryndia (Meghalaya) GI in 2025. GI use protects geographic branding and supports market claims.
- Silk Mark (CSB): label for pure natural silk—useful to combat polyester/viscose fakes. Pair with Handloom Mark where applicable.
Where to source (clusters)
- Assam: Sualkuchi is the historic weaving hub for Muga (and Pat); state directories list Muga farms and Eri seed grainages across Kamrup, Kokrajhar, etc.
- Meghalaya: Umden (Ri-Bhoi) is the epicentre of Ryndia/Eri weaving; state initiatives focus on traceability & branding.
Buyer QC & compliance checklist
For dyed/printed Muga/Eri goods (fabrics, shawls, sarees), ask vendors/labs for:
- Colour fastness – washing: ISO 105-C06; rubbing: ISO 105-X12.
- pH of aqueous extract (skin contact comfort): ISO 3071:2020.
- Azo dyes (EU REACH, Annex XVII – 22 amines, 30 mg/kg limit) for textiles/leather.
- Where claiming eco-safety for Eri, cite OEKO-TEX certificates from NEHHDC or mill-level labels.
Practical export mapping
- Muga sarees/fabrics: HS 5007.20.10 (sarees) or 5007 (other fabrics). India exported ~$63.6 m of ≥85% silk fabrics in 2023 (all silk types).
- Eri yarns: HS 5005 (spun silk yarn) with India’s 2023 exports at ~$1.95 m; Eri made-ups (shawls/stoles) under 6214.10.
- Overall silk (Ch.50) exports from India were $116 m in 2023; if you need destination splits for 5007/5005, we can drill those next
