You’re looking at India’s most iconic luxury textile—rooted in Ladakh’s high-altitude pashmina (cashmere) and hand-finished in Kashmir’s weaving and embroidery clusters. This page explains what’s authentic, how to source it responsibly, which HS codes to use, and where global demand sits today—with verifiable standards and regulations you can trust.

What “Kashmir Pashmina” legally means

• GI status: Kashmir Pashmina is a registered Geographical Indication (GI No. 46) covering yarn, fabric, shawls, stoles, and scarves produced to the registered specifications. Certification and labelling are administered via CDI Srinagar; authorized users and the GI classes (23, 24, 25) are listed by the GI authority.
  
• Testing & label: The Pashmina Testing & Quality Certification Centre (PTQCC) in Srinagar conducts the conformity testing; GI labels are affixed only after samples pass the Kashmir Pashmina specifications (microscopy/fibre parameters, handspun/handwoven verification per the Quality Manual).
  

Region & fibre: why India’s Pashmina is unique

• Origin of fibre: Raw pashmina comes from the Changthangi (Changra) goat in the Changthang plateau of Ladakh (India). Scientific work puts the average fibre fineness around 11–13 μm—ultra-fine even by cashmere standards—supporting the famed softness and warmth-to-weight ratio.
  
• Cluster split: Fibre is combed in Ladakh; hand-spinning, weaving, and value-addition (Sozni embroidery, Kani loom work, finishing) sit primarily in the Kashmir Valley. A Ladakh policy paper underscores the need to convert more local raw fibre into finished goods—relevant for traceability programs and value-addition discussions.
  
• New GI within J&K: Basohli Pashmina Woolen Products (J&K) also secured GI registration in Oct-2023—useful for collection storytelling and regional diversification.
  

Sub-categories

• GI-Certified Handspun, Handwoven Shawls/Stoles
  Use for premium capsules; pair with Sozni (needle) embroidery or Kani (loom-woven pattern) stories. Require PTQCC test report + GI label references in tech packs/PI
  
• Pashmina-Silk Blends (e.g., 70/30)
  Softer drape, sheen, and price agility for department stores and gift retail; ensure fibre-content labels follow destination rules (see §6).
  
• Men’s Stoles & Lightweight Scarves
  Tighter weaves, twill/diamond patterns; emphasize micron story and hand finish in hangtags referencing GI specs.
  
• Undyed/Natural & Low-Impact Dyes
  Leverage the luxury of natural ecru/grey tones; pair with traceable Ladakh fibre narrative from combing to finishing (lot mapping + lab report set).
  

HS & markets

• HS anchors
  
  • HS 621420 – Shawls, scarves, mufflers, veils… of wool or fine animal hair (umbrella line that captures Pashmina shawls/stoles in practice).
    
• Scale: India’s exports under HS 6214 were about US$306 million in 2023 (UN Comtrade; note this is the total for shawls/scarves of all wool/fine animal hair, not only GI Pashmina).
  
• Who buys from India (HS 621420, 2023): EU imported ≈ US$13.5m, USA ≈ US$3.26m worth from India, indicating steady demand in premium fashion channels; long-tail demand across MENA/APAC exists via smaller volumes. (Again, HS scope is wider than GI-only Pashmina.)
  

Quality & verification checklist (what we test and why)

• Fibre & structure: Micron verification (≈11–13 μm typical for Changthangi cashmere), microscopy to distinguish from sheep wool/man-made fibres; hand-spun/hand-woven confirmation where applicable. Conduct PTQCC testing for GI-labelled goods.
  
• Workmanship: Weave integrity (plain/twill/diamond), pattern fidelity (for Kani), embroidery density and thread count (for Sozni).
  
• Performance (by retail policy): Colour fastness to rubbing/perspiration, dimensional stability, pilling resistance—align to buyer standards while keeping handfeel. (House standards vary; labs will apply ISO/AATCC sets as required.)
  
• Chain-of-custody: Keep fibre lot records (Ladakh procurement), spinner/weaver batch books, and PTQCC certificate IDs with carton-level mapping for audit readiness.
  

Labelling & compliance (EU/US)

• EU (Reg. 1007/2011): Labels must show approved fibre names and percentages by weight (e.g., “100% cashmere” or “70% cashmere, 30% silk”); “pashmina” is not the fibre name in the EU list—use it as a style/marketing term, not the fibre declaration.
  
• US (FTC Wool/Textile Acts): If it’s pure pashmina, the fibre label must read “100% CASHMERE”—not “100% Pashmina.” Also include country of origin and manufacturer/RN.
  

Pro tip: Put the GI claim (e.g., “GI-Certified Kashmir Pashmina”) on the marketing label/hangtag and keep the fibre line strictly compliant (“Cashmere”).

Ethical red-lines

• Shahtoosh is illegal (Tibetan antelope, CITES Appendix I; Schedule I under India’s Wildlife Protection Act). Zero tolerance: prohibit shahtoosh and shahtoosh blends in all specs/POs; include seizure/liability language.
  

India’s sourcing strengths

• Unmatched fineness & handle from Changthangi cashmere; world-class average fineness drives drape/thermal comfort at low weight.
  
• Heritage techniques: GI ecosystem covers Pashmina plus related crafts (e.g., Sozni, Kani), enabling elevated SKUs and storytelling under one supply base.
  
• Verification infrastructure: PTQCC + GI labelling reduce authenticity disputes and support premium positioning. Recent equipment upgrades strengthen test capacity.
  

Practical buying guide

• Specs to fix early: target micron/handfeel, weave (plain/twill/diamond), size/weight band, fringe style, dye route (undyed/low-impact), finish, embroidery/Kani complexity, and GI label requirement.
  
• Documents: PTQCC test report + GI label code list; fibre-content label proofs for destination (EU/US); COO; HS 621420 on commercial docs.
  
• Claims hygiene: Keep “pashmina” to product names/storytelling; use “cashmere” on the fibre line to comply in EU/US.
  

Quick FAQs

• Is GI-certified Pashmina different from generic “pashmina”?
  Yes—GI goods must pass PTQCC tests and carry traceable labels; generic “pashmina” often refers to unverified cashmere or blends.
  
• What’s a realistic destination label?
  “100% Cashmere” (EU/US fibre law) + hangtag copy: “GI-Certified Kashmir Pashmina.”
  
• Which HS code do we ship under?
  HS 621420 for shawls/stoles of wool/fine animal hair (used in practice for pashmina shawls).
  

Market signals

• Category scale: India exported ≈US$306m of shawls/scarves (HS 6214) in 2023 (scope includes all wool/fine animal hair).
  

Buyer regions: EU ≈ US$13.5m and USA ≈ US$3.26m imported under HS 621420 from India in 2023—indicative of steady premium demand.