Scope & HS codes (how it ships)

• Product: hand embroidery from the Punjab cultural region, traditionally worked on handwoven khaddar (cotton) with untwisted silk floss (“pat”) in a counted darning stitch from the reverse side; styles include Bagh (fully covered), Chope/Subar (bridal), Sainchi (figurative) etc.
  
• Typical customs classification: HS 5810 – Embroidery in the piece, in strips or in motifs (sub-lines by fibre/ground, e.g., 581010 “without visible ground”, 581091/92 by fibre). Use 5810 for dupattas, odhanis, panels and motifs with embroidery as the defining feature.
  

Exports (best available disaggregation)

Phulkari is a micro-niche inside India’s broad “embroidery” basket, so it isn’t reported as a separate line item. Use HS 5810 (India) as the scale proxy.

• India HS 5810 exports, 2023: ~US$173 million; Italy was the largest buyer, followed by France and the United States.
  
• Within HS 5810, India ranked among the top exporters of “embroidery without visible ground” (HS 581010) with ~US$45 million in 2023. (Useful if your SKUs are mainly motifs/panels.)
  

Authenticity & geographical protection (why it’s region-specific)

• GI-registered: “Phulkari” is a protected Geographical Indication in India (Application No. 27), covering Punjab, Haryana & Rajasthan—the cultural spread of the craft.
  
• Government channels: Punjab’s PSIEC/Phulkari Government Emporiums retail authenticated craft and organize producer linkages (handy for verified sourcing).
  
• ODOP: India’s One-District-One-Product program highlights Phulkari in Punjab (e.g., Patiala), signalling state-backed promotion and cluster depth.
  

Quality—what defines a good Phulkari

Technique & materials (craft benchmarks)

• Darning stitch from the reverse on khaddar; silk floss “pat” as the traditional thread; motifs built by counting warp/weft; Bagh pieces can be near-total surface coverage.
  
• Style cues: Bagh (dense, overall geometry), Sainchi (village-life figuratives), Darshan-dwar (architectural panels), Chope (bridal). Museum literature documents these as canonical types.
  

Practical QC checklist (to add in your RFQ/PO)

• Base fabric: state fibre (usually cotton), weave (khaddar), and approximate count/EPI-PPI where applicable; if handwoven, ask for Handloom Mark tagging
  
• Embroidery thread: state fibre (silk floss/“pat” or viscose/poly), denier/tex if known; confirm shade/fastness expectations.
  
• Workmanship: confirm technique = reverse darning, coverage (e.g., Bagh ~full cover), motif set (Chope/Sainchi, etc.), stitch uniformity (no long loose floats), tidy reverse.
  
• Labelling & compliance (EU example):
  
  • Textile fibre labelling under Reg. (EU) 1007/2011 (declare both ground and, where relevant, applied embroidery fibres).
    
  • Chemicals/RSL: ensure dyes/auxiliaries meet REACH Annex XVII restrictions (e.g., azo colourants in textiles).
    

Optional quality endorsements

• Handloom Mark (Government of India, Textiles Committee) to verify handwoven ground fabrics.
  
• India Handloom Brand (IHB) for handloom categories—scheme specifies raw materials/processing/quality parameters and on-site verification. (Helpful if your line includes handloom dupattas/stoles that are then embroidered.)
  

Why India/Punjab for Phulkari (your sourcing edge)

• Place-tied know-how: The reverse-worked darning on khaddar with silk floss is a documented regional idiom—transmitted across Punjab’s households for generations; museum and craft scholarship anchors the motifs and styles to Punjab.
  
• GI + ODOP + state retail: The GI protects the name; ODOP and PSIEC Emporiums create market presence and traceability (useful for authenticity-led brands).
  
• Export ecosystem: India already supplies significant volumes of HS 5810 worldwide—so logistics, compliance labs, and packaging know-how exist; Phulkari can ride this established channel.
  

Buyer-ready spec (copy/paste template starters)

• HS: 5810 (sub-line per fibre/ground). Provenance: “Phulkari – GI (India: Punjab/Haryana/Rajasthan)”. Attach maker/location details and any GI user documentation.
  
• Construction: Base fabric = cotton khaddar (specify count/EPI-PPI if required). Embroidery = silk floss (pat) in reverse darning; style = Bagh / Sainchi / Chope / Darshan-dwar (attach motif sheet).
  
• Quality tests: Colour fastness to rubbing/perspiration/wash (ISO 105 series or buyer equivalent), dimensional stability of base fabric, and seam/edge durability (for dupattas/stoles). (Use lab’s standard methods; align to destination market.)
  
• Compliance: EU 1007/2011 fibre-labelling; REACH Annex XVII (azo dyes etc.). If ground is handwoven: Handloom Mark label; for premium lines: evaluate IHB eligibility.
  
• Packaging: acid-free tissue; poly free of restricted additives where required; avoid pressure on raised embroidery; include care card.
  

Quick numbers you can quote

• India HS 5810 exports (2023): ~US$173m, led by Italy, France, USA. (Phulkari is a heritage micro-niche within this.)

GI coverage: Phulkari registered as a Handicraft GI for Punjab, Haryana & Rajasthan (Govt. of India, IP India registry list, 26-Jul-2024).