Quick export context

• India’s silk & silk-product exports were US$ 244.27 mn in FY24; ₹2,027.56 crore (~US$ 244 mn) reported for 2023–24 by Govt/PIB & IBEF.
  
• Handloom exports (all fibres) were ₹1,146 crore (US$ 138.45 mn) in FY24; top importers: USA, UAE, plus EU markets (UK, France, Italy, Netherlands, Germany), Australia & Greece.
  
• Testing/compliance usually requested by importers: ISO 105 color fastness series and EU REACH Annex XVII (Entry 43) azo dyes restrictions for textiles.
  
• Authenticity & labelling:
  
  • Handloom Mark (Govt. of India) for genuine hand-woven goods.
  • Silk Mark (Central Silk Board/SMOI) for pure silk.
    

Note: India’s public stats don’t break out exports by saree type (Banarasi/Kanchipuram/etc.). The figures above cover the silk and handloom baskets that include sarees.

Banarasi (Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh)

GI status & region: “Banaras Brocades and Sarees” GI, registered 04-Sep-2009 (Application No. 99); GI area spans five U.P. districts around Varanasi.

What makes it unique (quality/technique): Heavy zari brocades with Persian-influenced motifs (kalga, bel, butidar). Techniques include Kadwa/Kadhua (each motif woven separately), Tanchoi, Jangla, cutwork; traditionally woven on pit looms.

Indicative production time: Kadwa pieces can take weeks to months depending on motif density.

QC/Buyer tips:

• Prefer Handloom Mark + Silk Mark labelled pieces (pure silk).
  
• Check zari (banarasi commonly uses real-silver-gilt zari); verify with supplier & GI logo use when available.
  

HS codes (typical):

• Silk Banarasi sarees: 5007.20.10 (silk fabrics—sarees).
  
• Man-made fibre variants (polyester brocades): see 5407 (e.g., 54078470 “Polyester sarees, printed”).
  

Kanchipuram / Kancheevaram (Tamil Nadu)

GI status & region: Recognized 2005–06; Kanchipuram district administration provides the official cluster brief.

What makes it unique:

• The korvai join—body and border woven separately then interlocked; three-shuttle technique; borders often contrast sharply with body. Mulberry silk (traditionally from Karnataka) and zari from Surat.
  
• Classical temple-inspired motifs (gopuram, rudraksha, mayilkan).
  

Indicative production time: ~4–5 days for simpler saris per IIT-Bombay D’source; more intricate bridal pieces can take longer.

QC/Buyer tips:

• Ask for Silk Mark; many buyers also request thread twist/ply details (Kanchipuram is known for heavier, multi-ply silk).
  

HS code: 5007.20.10 (pure silk sarees).

Sambalpuri (Bandha Ikat) — Odisha

GI status & region: “Sambalpuri Bandha Saree & Fabrics” (Application No. 208), Certificate date 17-Jul-2012.

What makes it unique:

• Bandha (ikat) resist-dyeing on warp and/or weft; signature motifs include shankha (conch), chakra (wheel), phula (floral); strong Western Odisha identity.
  

Fibre range: Cotton, silk, and bapta (silk-cotton). Testing focus: color-fastness to washing, perspiration, rubbing.

HS codes (typical):

• Silk Sambalpuri: 5007.20.10.
  
• Cotton Sambalpuri sarees: classified under cotton woven-fabrics saree lines (e.g., 5208 11 20 – cotton sarees, specific sub-line used by Indian customs/filers).
  

Patola (Patan, Gujarat) — Double Ikat

GI status & region: “Patan Patola” registered; Gujarat state GI lists reflect the registration.

What makes it unique:

• Double ikat (both warp & weft resist-dyed), producing razor-sharp, reversible patterns; globally among the most complex textiles.
  
• Lead times: ~6 months to a year from pre-loom to post-loom for one sari (artisan documentation).
  

QC/Buyer tips:

• Expect low volumes, premium pricing, and long lead times; verify double-ikat alignment and ask for artisan/atelier provenance.
  

HS code: 5007.20.10 (silk).

Baluchari (Bishnupur, West Bengal)

GI status & region: “Baluchari Saree” Application No. 173, Registered; West Bengal’s GI portal lists validity through 2029

What makes it unique:

• Narrative jacquard brocades on the pallu/border with mythological scenes; resham, meenakari, and swarnachari (zari) variants. Production is concentrated around Bishnupur.
  

Indicative production time: Often ~1 week for standard pieces (varies with complexity).

HS code: Generally 5007.20.10 (silk sarees).

How these strengths are India/region-specific

• Embedded GI systems protect these names (Banaras/Kancheevaram/Sambalpuri/Patan/Baluchari), giving buyers enforceable provenance.
  
• Distinct weaving logics:
  
  • Banarasi = brocade schools (Kadwa/Tanchoi/Jangla) on pit looms.
    
  • Kanchipuram = korvai interlock and three-shuttle method; temple aesthetics.
    
  • Sambalpuri = Odisha bandha/ikat vocabulary (shankha/chakra).
    
  • Patola = rare double ikat mastery centered in Patan.
    
  • Baluchari = Jacquard narrative pallus unique to Bishnupur’s workshop culture.
    

These aren’t generic “Indian sarees”—they’re place-encoded techniques safeguarded by GI, authenticity marks, and living clusters.

Practical buyer checklist

• Classification & paperwork
  
  • Use 5007.20.10 for pure silk sarees (Banarasi/Kanchipuram/Patola/Baluchari; silk Sambalpuri).
    
  • Cotton Sambalpuri sarees often filed under 5208/5209 sublines (e.g., 52081120 – cotton sarees); polyester sarees appear under 5407 (e.g., 54078470).
    
• Quality & compliance
  
  • Request Handloom Mark + Silk Mark as applicable.
    
  • Color fastness per ISO 105 (C06 washing / X12 rubbing, etc.) and REACH Entry 43 azo compliance declarations.
    
• Lead times & MOQs (indicative)
  
  • Patan Patola: ~6–12 months per saree; tiny MOQs.
    
  • Kanchipuram: simple pieces ~4–5 days and up; complex bridal variants longer.
    
  • Banarasi (Kadwa): weeks to months depending on motif density.