What it is

• Cuttack—Odisha’s “Silver City”—is India’s principal hub for ultra-fine silver filigree (Tarakasi). District and state pages describe it as delicately worked silver wire art; the craft is centuries old and cluster-based in Cuttack.
  
• GI protection: “Cuttack Silver Filigree (Chandi Tarakasi)” is registered as a Geographical Indication (GI Application #767, status: Registered). Press coverage confirms the 2024 grant.
  

How it’s made

• Material & prep: ≥90% silver is melted, cast to rod, then drawn into ultra-fine wire; wires/foils are curled, twisted, and soldered (borax flux) into lace-like jali and granulation patterns.
  
• Product families: jewellery (earrings, bangles, necklaces, Odissi dance sets), religious/decor articles, miniatures (Konark-wheel, etc.).
  

Why Cuttack is special

• Provenance you can claim: GI-registered “Cuttack Silver Filigree (Chandi Tarakasi)”—lets you require GI logo + Authorized-User details on labels/invoices.
  
• Cultural embed:
  
  • Odissi dance jewellery is a signature Cuttack filigree product category.
    
  • Durga Puja ‘Chandi Medha’ (large silver filigree backdrops) is unique to Cuttack; reported annually and newly commissioned in 2024.
    
• Institutional support: A new Silver Filigree Common Facility Centre in Cuttack (foundation stone laid Aug-2025) aims to scale artisan capacity and tooling.
  

Export classification (HS)

• Jewellery (rings, bangles, sets, etc.): HS 7113. In India’s tariff, 7113 11 10 = “Jewellery with filigree work.” Use this 8-digit line when applicable.
  
• Non-jewellery silverware/decor (filigree idols, frames, tableware): HS 7114 (e.g., 7114.11 for silver table/kitchenware in some schedules). Classification still follows the article, not the technique.
  
• For destination-market HTS (e.g., US), sub-lines differ—confirm with your broker (US HTS 7113/7114 examples shown here).
  

India export snapshot

(Filigree is a technique; trade data sits under jewellery/ware headings.)

• HS 711311 (silver jewellery): India exported US$1.68 billion (2023) worldwide (UN Comtrade/WITS).
  
• HS 711411 (silver silversmiths’ wares): India exported ~US$13.9 million (2023); major partners include USA and UAE.
  
• Sector trend: GJEPC reported silver jewellery exports up ~9.8% in Apr–Jun 2024 YoY, but overall G&J exports for FY25 were down ~11.7% amid global headwinds. (Use for planning demand volatility.)
  

Quality markers to spec in POs

• Fineness: Specify Sterling 925 (or 990/970 for select pieces). India’s IS 2112:2014 lists recognized silver fineness grades and hallmark markings.
  
• Construction: minimum wire gauge (or weight) tolerance; granulation density; uniform solder lines; no pits/porosity after pickle/polish. (Technique references)
  
• Finish: oxidized vs high-polish; optional rhodium to slow tarnish—declare coating if used.
  
• Provenance: For GI-labelled orders, require GI mention “Cuttack Silver Filigree (Chandi Tarakasi)” + Authorized-User ID on invoice/label.
  
• Iconography (if relevant): Odissi sets; Konark motifs; religious/‘Chandi Medha’-style patterns.
  

Compliance & testing

India—Hallmarking (BIS):

• IS 2112:2014 governs silver jewellery/artefact fineness & marking; hallmark shows BIS mark + fineness + A&H centre ID + jeweller ID.
  
• Direction of travel: multiple trade reports in 2025 indicate silver hallmarking to become mandatory (HUID-based) from Sep 1, 2025—track BIS circulars for final enforcement details.
  

EU—REACH (typical for jewellery):

• Lead (Entry 63): <0.05% by weight in jewellery (or meet stringent release-rate exemption).
  
• Cadmium (Entry 23): <0.01% in jewellery.
  
• Nickel release (Entry 27): items in direct & prolonged skin contact must be ≤0.5 µg/cm²/week; piercings ≤0.2. (Silver alloys seldom contain nickel, but test plated parts/closures.)
  

Suggested test plan (by SKU lot):

• Fineness: XRF screening; fire assay (cupellation) on AQL sample per BIS manual.
  
• Restricted substances: ICP for Pb/Cd; EN 1811 for nickel release on any plated steel findings/clasps.
  

Buyer checklist

• Product description: “Cuttack Silver Filigree (Chandi Tarakasi) — [jewellery/artefact]” with GI mention if claimed.
  
• Material: Silver 925 (or 970/990); net silver weight; solder cadmium-free declaration.
  
• Dimensions: piece size; wire gauge minimums; weight tolerance (±x%).
  
• Finish/coating: polish/antique; plating thickness if any.
  
• Labelling/docs: BIS hallmark details per IS 2112; GI Authorized-User details (if applicable); HS code (7113 11 10 for filigree jewellery, or relevant 7114 code for non-jewellery).
  
• Testing: declare compliance with EU REACH Entries 63/23/27 (lead/cadmium/nickel) and provide latest test reports.
  
• Packaging: anti-tarnish paper + poly, rigid box; humidity sachet for long-haul shipments.
  

Where to source / institutional touchpoints

• Cuttack (Odisha) cluster: recognised by state/city; contact via Directorate of Handicrafts & Cottage Industries, Odisha.
  
• Upcoming infra: Cuttack Common Facility Centre (tooling/training/marketing) under state initiative—useful for scale & consistency.
  

Quick export mapping (useful lines)

• 7113 11 10 (India): Jewellery with filigree work → use for filigree jewellery.
  
• 7114.11 etc.: Silver silversmiths’ wares (non-jewellery filigree articles).
  
• Market size pointers: India’s silver jewellery exports (711311) US$1.68 bn in 2023; silverware (711411) ~US$13.9 m—USA is a key buyer in both lines.