Tikuli Art, Sujini Embroidery

Discover India

Product Specific

Region Specific

Tikuli Art (Patna, Bihar)

What it is — technique & materials

  • Originates in Patna, Bihar with an ~800-year lineage; the word tikuli links to the forehead bindi. Historic pieces were glass with gold/silver foil; modern practice uses enamel-finished hardboard/MDF and very fine brushwork.
  • Documented process: multiple enamel coats on board (sanded between coats), then fine painting (often 00 brushes); earlier variants on glass/metal with foil
  • The state craft institute Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan Sansthan (UMSAS) publishes craft notes/reports and runs training for Tikuli clusters in Patna.

Exports (how it ships, HS mapping)

  • When sold as original paintings, exporters typically use HS 9701 (Paintings, drawings, etc.). India’s HS 9701 exports were ≈ US$169 m in 2023; key destinations include the US, UK/EU (category-level).
  • Depending on substrate and finishing, some firms also classify select SKUs as decorative articles rather than Chapter 97; confirm with your customs broker at PO stage. (9701 is standard for hand-painted artworks.)

Quality & compliance — what buyers specify

  • Substrate & finish: board thickness, enamel system (solvent vs. water-borne), surface gloss, and hanging hardware specs; ask for VOC/lead-free declarations where relevant. Process/finish details are described in contemporary craft documentation.
  • Authenticity/provenance: artisan/cluster attribution (Patna), craft notes from UMSAS/state bodies.
  • Export channel: Handicrafts exporters typically route via EPCH trade fairs and B2B programs.

Why India/Mithila (regional strengths)

  • Deep Patna school lineage (glass-and-foil to enamel-on-board) and an active revival ecosystem (UMSAS + state/central handicrafts programs).

Sujini (Sujani) Embroidery (Mithila region, Bihar)

What it is — technique & geography

  • Story-quilt embroidery traditionally made by women in Bhusura (Gaighat block, Muzaffarpur) and nearby villages, also in pockets of Madhubani—using layered old saris/dhotis quilted together; running stitch fills and chain stitch outlines narrate everyday and social themes.
  • Base fabrics today often include muslin (white/red), with motifs worked in contrasting threads.

GI protection (origin assurance)

  • “Sujini Embroidery Work of Bihar” is officially GI-registered (Application No. 74, Class 26) under India’s GI Act (2006/2007)

Exports (HS mapping & numbers)

  • When sold as embroidery in the piece/motifs, use HS 5810. India exported ≈ US$173 m of HS 5810 in 2023; top buyers include Italy, France, the US (category-level).
  • If made up as bedspreads/throws/wall hangings, exporters also use HS 6304 (other furnishing articles). (Check final construction at coding.)

Quality & compliance — what buyers specify

  • Make & materials: base fabric (e.g., cotton muslin), ply/layering, stitch density (running/chain), dimensional stability, colorfastness. Descriptions of stitch language and base cloth are in state craft notes.
  • Chemicals compliance (EU/UK/EU-aligned): Textile articles must meet REACH Annex XVII restrictions (e.g., azo dyes → aromatic amines ≤ 30 mg/kg); check buyer RSL and use harmonized test methods (EN ISO 14362 series)
  • For made-up bedding items, some buyers apply EN/ISO 12952 flammability (varies by market/contract). (Use as required by the PO.)

Why India/Mithila (regional strengths)

  • GI tag enables origin-verified storytelling and premium positioning.
  • Documented cluster base (Bhusura + 15 surrounding villages) supports continuity and community-scale production.

Quick RFQ checklists

Tikuli Art (HS 9701)

  • Substrate (board/glass), finished size, enamel system & coats, finish (matte/gloss), hanging hardware, packaging (flat/tube, corner protection), artist/cluster attribution; EPCH membership/participation (if applicable).

Sujini Embroidery (HS 5810 / 6304)

  • Base fabric (muslin/cotton), dimensions & GSM, layer construction (if quilted), stitch density, motif brief, colorfastness plan, REACH Annex XVII compliance for dyes (test method refs), labeling & care.

Numbers you can quote in decks

  • India – HS 9701 (Paintings) exports 2023: ≈ US$169 m.
  • India – HS 5810 (Embroidery) exports 2023: ≈ US$173 m; Italy/France/US among top buyers.

Sources

  • Tikuli: Bihar Tourism & UMSAS craft notes (history/technique), plus enamel-process documentation
  • Sujini: GI registry (official), Origin-GI dossier, and UMSAS/NIFT craft write-ups (clusters, stitches, base cloth).
  • Trade/HS: Trendeconomy/OEC dashboards for HS 9701 & HS 5810 exports.

Compliance: ECHA Annex XVII overview; textile azo limits (≤ 30 mg/kg) as referenced in EU guidance/industry summaries.

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